Saturday in Alba is the big market day; for us, it is the day we celebrate David’s birthday. Settante? Si! More on that later.
We did sleep in a little bit today – I guess we either needed the rest or our livers were protesting. Once we were cleaned up, we headed outside. It’s another beautiful day with temperatures in the mid 70’s and just a few clouds passing through.
From our apartment, we walked about 30 meters to the Piazza. Turning the corner, we immediately entered the Alba Market. If there is something that you can not find here, then you probably don’t need it. Clothing, purses, belts, underwear, perfumes, cosmetics, linens, fabrics, small electronics, household gadgets, tablecloths, (deep breath) and then we came to the food – fruits, vegetables, cheeses, salami, nuts, breads, pastries, fish, meat, honey, jam and pastas. Quite a spectacle.
Tucked away in certain areas were also some street musicians that were excellent and entertaining. All that was missing was a ventriloquist singing ‘Volare’ while drinking water.
Turning a corner, we found a ventriloquist – oh, never mind!
After walking around for a while, we stopped in a little shop and bought two slices of pizza to take back to the apartment for lunch. The shop had about twenty different kinds of pizza in rectangular pans and you just asked them to cut you a piece in the size that you wanted. The best part was that for two fairly ginormous slices, we only paid 8.10 Euros. On the way back to the apartment we ran into Jan and Dave, who were also out marketing.
Dinner tonight was special. This was the night we celebrated David’s 70th birthday and we wanted to make it memorable. Our dinner was at Ristorante Marc Lanteri at Castello di Grinzane Cavour. It’s a one star Michelin restaurant located inside of the historic castle.
We arrived just before sunset and had a beautiful view of the surrounding area as the sun dipped below the horizon.
Let’s make this easy – it was fabulous! Everything about the restaurant was exceptional. We had high expectations and it blew right through them. First off, the staff was outstanding. Everyone was very professional, yet very friendly. They truly made us feel special.
Next was the food. Every bite was heavenly. The flavors made your taste buds dance with pleasure. I know it sounds corny, but think of your favorite flavor then multiply it by ten. The starting pre-appetizers and amuse-bouche left you wanting more, which is what they are intended to do. Our first course choices were split: Jan and Dave both chose the risotto with cuttlefish and broccoli raab, while Sue and I both had the gnocchi with white truffles. For secondi, we had two braised beef cheeks, one Fassone rump steak and I had the roasted quail with white truffles.
And for the desserts this evening, Sue actually passed on dessert as she was too full, Jan had the molten chocolate cake, I had the Zabaglione and David had the poached pears complete with birthday candle.
Along with the meal, we started with a glass of Spumante, followed by a bottle of Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis 2017 and then two bottles of Punset Barbaresco 2010. All of the wines were outstanding and very reasonably priced. They all were perfect matches for our meals.
The restaurant staff was nice enough to help in letting our driver know that we would be a little behind our scheduled pick-up time as none of us wanted to rush through this meal. When we exited, he was actually happy that we had the chance to experience such a fine meal. The ride back only took a few minutes and then we all had the chance to walk off about 10 calories on the way to our apartments.
It was an excellent meal and a memorable way to celebrate a big birthday. Buon Compleano, David!!!
We are looking forward to the day ahead. We will be participating in a cooking class at a farmhouse in the town of Cervere, which is just a short drive from Alba.
We started out by meeting Martina and Valerie at Piazza Michele Ferraro. Valerie is the travel planner that we have worked with to put this holiday together and this was our first face to face meeting. Valerie and Martina will be taking the class along with us.
We rode along with Martina to the farmhouse; Valerie would be meeting us there. Though we did hit a little bit of traffic, it didn’t slow us down too much. When the GPS said we arrived at our destination, the house number game started again. It took us a loop around the neighborhood, even passing by a faux-farm, before we located our farmhouse.
When we arrived, it was really a classic farmhouse, with a horse, a pony, two pot belly pigs, one pink pig (we nicknamed him “Bay-Con”, a big dog and four puppies. I was worried that we would have to pull Sue and Martina away from the animals, but they relented with a promise of a visit after the class.
Our master chef was Raffaella, and for the day we would be her students. It was a fun, hands-on experience preparing three dishes and a dessert and then eating them.
The menu was: Capunet stuffed with pork sausage in a béchamel sauce, Pumpkin cream soup, Taglioni ai Funghi and then fresh peaches with a zabaglione sauce and amaretti. Of course, there was wine!
We started out by each having a task of peeling, chopping, dicing or blanching the various ingredients. Next we were given a new assignment to blend, whisk or combine ingredients. Practically fainting from the excruciating work, we took a wine and cheese break.
The wine and cheese revived us all, so back to the kitchen we went. Next on the agenda was stuffing the cabbage leaves with the fresh pork sausage, lining them up in the pan and then covering them with the béchamel sauce before sending them to the oven. With our mushrooms, garlic, tomatoes and leeks simmering, it was pasta time. Bowls of flour, egg, olive oil and a pinch of salt had been expertly prepared for each participant, now it was time to work that dough!
We all created our dough and then merged them together to create a super dough ball. We let it set for a few minutes before breaking out the pasta machines and cranking out sheets of pasta dough. Once those were ready to go, we made our taglioni. Thin, delicate strands of pasta were created with each turn of the handle, then laid out to dry before heading to the boiling pot of water.
In the meantime, the sauces were simmering nicely and we were nearing the time to eat our creations.
First came the Zuppa di Zucca. It was rich and creamy and tasted delicious. Some pancetta and amaretti crumble were a perfect offset to the flavor of the pumpkin.
Next were the Capunet or cabbage rolls with the béchamel sauce. These also came out great. They may not have been the prettiest rolls, but they would challenge for the tastiest. Delicious with the blend of the sausage and tender cabbage leaves, then made perfect by the béchamel sauce.
Note: They were so good we ate them before I remembered the picture. So picture in your mind delicate little rolls of cabbage with a creamy white sauce and lots of melted cheese.
Our third and most controversial dish was the taglioni. It was delicious, tender with just the right amount of sauce. The controversy arose when the others didn’t believe that I could pick out MY pasta and it was the best. Ha – what do you expect ?!? Chef Boy-Ar-Dee, eat your heart out.
And our final course was the freshes peaches with the zabaglione sauce, a little dark chocolate and some amaretti crumbles. The flavors burst in your mouth and cried out for a Nebbiolo wine, which we just so happened to have.
Everyone had a great time and we say a special thanks to Raffaella for a wonderful experience and to Valerie for setting things up and to Martina for joining us.
Next was the dangerous part: getting to meet the animals. We were already pretty cozy in the car and Martina had her eye on the pony. I thought for sure one of us would be asked to give up their spot in the car. Luckily, she relented…but I think it was only because it wasn’t her car.
The ride back to town seemed to go quick. We actually drove through Martina’s home town of Bra and she was a little too shy to show us where the Piazza Martina was located. I’ll just google map it back at the apartment.
This would be our last planned encounter with Martina, so it was sad when she dropped us off. Lots of hugs and a big ‘Thank You’.
We all enjoyed getting to meet her and wish her well. I’ll let her know if the vinegar works any better when I get back home.
We all needed a little time to relax. Sue and I went for a little walk later on to try and find the elusive black sweater. We stopped at the Ape Wine Bar, where we had met Martina earlier in the week but no luck there.
However, we did decide to stay for a drink and then upped the ante to include a plate of tajarin with white truffles. It was a beautiful night to sit out, plus the music they were playing was really great and our waitress was extra friendly and nice.
It was a nice stroll back to the apartment and I’d have to say that it was a perfect way to end a perfect day!
After yesterday’s fun-filled day in the Roero, today it was a visit to Barbaresco. We once again had beautiful weather – a little chilly in the morning and then warm with sunny skies the remainder of the day.
Once again, we gathered in Piazza Michele Ferrero to meet up with Luca. They are building carnival rides around town with a nice looking carousel being built near us. When Luca arrived at 9:30, we were ready to head off.
Though we did sneak in a glass or two previously, today we will really focus on the grape of Piemonte – Nebbiolo. For our tasting pleasure, it would be the Queen – Barbaresco that would tempt our palates.
We started the day at Ca’ del Baio, which roughly translates to ‘House of the Bay Horse’. It is a family-run winery led by their winemaker father, and daughters who have studied oneology at home and abroad.
We were taken through the winery and actually had a chance to meet the family as we viewed the facilities. As with the other wineries we have visited, the production area is spotlessly clean. The family was busy working on labels, while waiting for the grapes to be harvested.
They have a very nice portfolio of wines and the fun part is getting to taste some of them. We chose to go through a flight of five of their Nebbiolo wines – two plain Nebbiolo and three barbaresco. All of the wines were excellent; even though they were young, they exhibited great structure and fruit. Yes, we bought a couple bottles to drink back at the apartment.
After our delightful breakfast tasting, we made a stop in the town of Barbaresco. It’s a quaint little town with old world charm and some more modern facades to hide some of the commercial areas.
We made one stop for a little wine tasting at the Enoteca Regionale del Barbaresco. It was formerly a small church that has been converted into a place of devotion for Barbaresco wines. We chose a flight of four wines and shared the tasting, each of us enjoying the wines.
Next we would eat. For lunch we met up with Martina and we all visited a local pasta maker for lunch. He makes his pasta from ancient grains, which, in case you think like me – does not just mean old wheat.
He talked to us about the process he goes through to make and dry the pasta. Since he only spoke Italian, we were glad to have Luca and Martina with us to translate.
Then came the meal. We gathered on his terrace and took our seats. With his mother in the kitchen, we started with a frittata with spinach, next came some tagliatelle with a butter sauce and crumbled hazelnuts and we finished with a zabaglione over crumbled biscuits. We drank two Swiss wines – one red, one white and a dessert wine called Arpu.
After thanking our host and momma, we departed for our afternoon tour.
On the way to the winery, we took a beautiful ride through the hills of Barbaresco. Vineyards with ripe grapes waiting to be harvested and down below – hazel nut trees. We wanted to pull over and grab a handful.
We arrived at our destination – Pelissero Winery. The building is new, but the winemaking is traditional. Nebbiolo showcased in the best way possible – structure, fruit and TLC.
Mateo was our guide through the winery and the tastings. He was fun, knowledgeable and passionate about the wines they make. Yes, we bought three bottles of wine to drink at the apartment.
We returned to the apartment to celebrate David’s birthday with a little wine and cheese get-together. We opened the bottle of Gianni Doghla Bosco Donne Barbera D’Asti and enjoyed it immensely – just as good as when we tasted it at the winery. See, it’s a good thing we bought wine!
Up and ready to go early today; we met our guide Luca and headed out for some wine tasting and winery visits. It was a full day of “Grape” fun, plus an awesome dinner to finish it off.
We met Luca at the Piazza Michele Ferraro to start the day. Luca will be with us to guide, inform, transport and translate as we make our way through the Piemonte wine region. Today we will start by going to Monferrato and the Roero area.
There is some old saying about drinking in the morning, but since no one among our group could remember it, we decided to just ignore it and enjoy our wine. So off to the first stop…
Our first visit was at the Braida Winery. At Braida, we were taken on a short tour of the winery to learn about their history and production methods. The tour was led by Carolina, who did a nice job of promoting the winery.
After the tour, we were led to a very nice tasting room where we tasted five different wines. All of them were excellent and it would be hard to pick an overall favorite.
We wrapped up our visit with the purchase of three bottles of wine to drink back at the apartment. This would become a repetitive phrase.
After that perfect breakfast tasting, we were off to Monferrato for a picnic lunch and tasting at the winery of Gianni Doglia. The winery is located high up in the hills of Monferrato. The ride over provided some beautiful views in every direction. Since this is also harvest time, the fresh air also contained the sweet bouquet of grapes.
Gianni Doglia, besides being the name of the winery, is also the name of the winemaker. For our visit, we would be interacting with his sister – Paola, and she was a delight. Friendly, bubbly and knowing all about the family winery. So much fun to visit.
Our tasting was held along with our picnic lunch. Since the vineyard was a little wet in spots, we had our picnic under the pergola. Such a sacrifice!
We first heard a little bit about the winery and the wines that they produce, while looking over the spectacular views of the vineyards below. Being in Monferrato, their primary wines are Moscato, Grignolino and Barbera. Interestingly, they have also planted a small plot of Riesling in one of their vineyards.
Afterwards, we settled in for lunch and some wine. We had a wonderful picnic-style lunch with bread, cheese, sausage, agnolotti, melanzane and hazelnuts. We also tasted the winery’s Moscato D’Asti, Grignolino, Ruche’ Di Castagnole Monferrato, Barbera D’Asti and Nebbiolo. All were very good, with the Barbera D’Asti – Bosco Donne being my favorite. While we were eating and tasting, Gianni arrived and gave a wave as he hurried into the winery.
After we finished up our picnic, we had a few minutes to enjoy the views, buy a couple bottles of wine for back at the apartment and we were able to sneak a quick peek as they were bringing in grapes to be crushed.
After we finished up at the winery, we piled back into the car to head to our final wine destination of the day, the Demarie Winery. While some might be thinking three winery visits in one day is insanity, I say “Nay”!
Luckily, the tasting pours are just that – a taste, probably just an ounce. All of the wines have been so good, and we have a driver guide, so Carpe Diem!
We arrived at the winery after a beautiful ride through the hills of the Roero. The weather is gorgeous and the landscapes are like something you only dream about. This is the essence of La Dolce Vita.
Demarie is another family owned winery located in the Roero. They make some very good wines, especially their red wines and do so in an environmentally friendly manner. While they are not organic, they are close. They are also very conscious of their footprint and use solar energy to generate electricity, and they recycle their water.
So once again, we bought three bottles to drink back at the apartment before heading back to Alba for the evening.
It was truly a great day of touring and wine tasting. The wineries that we went to were all high quality, small producers that really care about the wines they produce. Additionally, the people we met were fantastic. All went out of their way to make us feel welcome and we were most appreciative of their efforts to tell us their story in English.
We are very happy to have Luca with us. Besides being very personable, he has also studied to be a Sommelier and really adds so much to our tastings. He also provides much background about the wine regions and vineyards. And he plays good music!
Luca dropped us off back in Alba and we are very much looking forward to tomorrow’s tours.
We only had a short turn around time before dinner this evening. Unfortunately, Jan was a bit under the weather and decided to skip dinner and rest up for tomorrow. Like the last battalion of brave soldiers, David, Sue and I were steadfast in our desire for good food.
Our dinner tonight was at Ristorante Il Centro in Priocca. It came highly recommended by Valerie, as well as being one of my top picks. We just hoped it would live up to its reputation.
We had a bit of a shaky start. There was some confusion over where our driver would pick us up, which caused us to be about twenty minutes late. When we arrived, we were very apologetic, but they reassured us that it was not a problem and welcomed us warmly.
As for the restaurant itself, it would probably be called upscale casual. There were people in suits and dresses and there were also people there in T-shirts and sneakers. Luckily, we were somewhere in between.
The food would probably be called upscale fantastic! Everything was homemade, exceptionally delicious and served by an extremely conscientious waitstaff. Other than that, it was ok…
They started by bringing us what we thought was an amuse-bouche, but really was a small appetizer platter and all Items were amazingly tasty. They also brought us warm, homemade breads that were awesome.
I don’t want to run out of superlatives because we haven’t even received our first course. For our primi, David chose the risotto, which was creamy and cheesy; Sue and I both had the Tajarin with white truffles. I don’t remember the Italian word, so I’ll go with Molto yummy!
For our secondi or main course, we all had the veal cheek with a fig reduction. It was served over a small bed of mashed potatoes and was so tender it fell apart just seeing your fork come near. All three of us were savoring each bite.
Unfortunately, our driver was returning, so we had to skip out on dessert. However, while they were preparing the check, they brought us out a dessert sampler – a taste of four different dessert selections. Needless to say, we were impressed.
We paid the bill and the Maitre’D, who is also the owner’s son, walked us out to the door, thanking us for coming. Our ride was waiting so we hopped in and headed back to town.
I think the driver thought we were angry for the earlier mistake, but we tried to reassure him that it was not his fault, just a little confusion. He seemed glad that we shook his hand and acknowledged the issue. We’ll see if he is our driver again on Saturday when we once again go out of town for dinner.
For our first day of touring, we were all happy and content as we headed home to rest for tomorrow.
Our first full day in Alba was an easy day of getting acquainted with our surroundings. After sleeping in a little bit, we walked down to the Piazza Risorgimento to meet up with Jan and Dave for lunch.
Many more people were out today as the weather is beautiful. The main street of town has lots of shops and little restaurants and wine stores. One store was proudly displaying their tartufo bianco d’Alba or white truffles of Alba as we walked along. They are so expensive, but so delicious.
We arrived at Piazza Risorgimento (also known as Piazza Duomo) since it is the location of the Duomo. I did not take photos today as they had lifting equipment there while performing some maintenance work. I looked the other way and the town’s major bell tower stood proudly, although it did have a little lean to it – watch out Pisa!
Once we met up with Jan and Dave, we found a nice place right near the Duomo called, wait for it, Ristorante Bistrot Duomo.
We had a nice lunch with two bottles of Arneis. Between us, we had their pizza, a seafood medley and tajarin pasta with black truffles. Only I was willing to take the leap and had a tiramisu to finish things off, and it was delicious.
After lunch, we walked over to Jan and Dave’s apartment to drop off some stuff and pick up a bit of some cake that their landlord had provided for them. We then followed the route we would take to get to the Piazza to meet our guide and driver for tomorrow’s tour, plus we located the restaurant for dinner tonight.
We made a quick stop at our apartment to drop off the cake and to catch up on emails and messages. Having the two apartments instead of a hotel is a change and using Airbnb is definitely saving a few dollars.
We headed out to the Ape Wine Bar to meet up with Martina, who had our itinerary printed out, plus tickets for our Underground Archaeological Tour next weekend. We got to know each other and enjoyed a nice bottle of La Spinetta Barbera D’Asti. If they had that in meetings back home, I’d probably still be working. Not!!
Afterwards, we headed back to the apartment to relax for a while before dinner. We looked over tomorrow’s itinerary; we will be visiting three different wineries and will have a picnic lunch.
On the agenda tonight is dinner at Osteria dell’Arco. Besides having a nice overall ambience, they have a tremendous selection of wine, great food, very reasonable prices and it is a favorite of the locals.
I’ll just list a few of our meal courses: pumpkin soup with hake (it’s a fish), Potato gnocchi, Ravioli de plin, braised lamb and roast chicken. We selected a Nebbiolo D’Alba wine and finished up with Gianduja Chocolate mousse and panna cotta with fresh berries. Everything was superb!
It was just a short walk back to the apartments to relax and prepare for tomorrows outing.
It took a couple hours to drive from Milan Malpensa Airport to the town of Alba, but the scenery along the way was wonderful. Looking forward to exploring some of the small towns and vineyards over the next week and a half.
We are both staying in Airbnb apartments this trip, which is another first for us. Our apartment is close to the train station, while Jan and Dave are staying close to the town center, but with just a five minute walk between them.
Oh those wacky Europeans and their numbering systems. Mauro dropped us off at 19 Corso Fratelli Bandieri, which one might assume was right next to number 21. And if you had assumed that, you too would have been wrong. We ended up getting some help from two very nice people. Number twenty one was actually down and around the corner. No matter, we found it.
Our owner was waiting for us when we arrived. She is of the Rinaldo family that produces wine in the region. As a treat, she left us a bottle of their Gavi, a white wine grown just outside of Alba. She showed us around the apartment, provided some information about the area and nearby restaurants, and then handed over the keys. So far, so good!
Our apartment is nice. It’s not huge, but it’s spotlessly clean, comfortable and close to some highly anticipated restaurants. It looks like they took a large apartment and made two smaller ones out of it. We are located on the second floor, which is the first floor in European terms.
After unpacking, we relaxed for a bit before taking a little walk to get the lay of the land, We really are in a great location. The train station is only about 200 meters away, there is a small store right around the corner where we can buy supplies, snacks and wine! There are also plenty of places nearby for gelato, fresh baked goods and more wine. After a few stops along the way, we headed back to the apartment with goodies in hand.
As it was dinner time and we were both hungry, we decided to find a little place nearby for a bite. We ended up at a family run Pizzeria – Pizzeria – Restarante Cincilla. It looked cute and smelled wonderful – so we asked if they could seat us. Since the sun was down and the evening air had a bit of a chill, we sat inside.
The older gentleman owner immediately greeted us and asked us something in Italian. In our whiniest reply, we had to say we didn’t understand and only knew a little Italian. However, when it came time to order, we redeemed ourselves with perfect Italian which brought a smile to his face.
We had a couple of caprese salads with ripe, succulent tomatoes, then we shared a pizza and a bottle of Pio Cesaro Barbera D’Alba. Everything was delicious! Staying on the course of redemption – a big smiling dolce – due tiramisu won them over. We truly had a wonderful time, especially being the only non-locals in the restaurant.
The coupe de grace for the evening was when we realized as we were walking out that they had given us too much change. We returned and explained -giving them back the extra. It was just a small math error, but it was worth 10 Euro to them. I think we could have called him “Papa” at that point.
We took a quiet stroll back to the apartment. The town looks nice at night and we’re looking forward to seeing it in the daylight tomorrow.
Usually our journeys start with a quick taxi ride to the airport, but not today. Today, we had our own chauffeur for our ride to Toronto. Ok, we were actually picked up by friends Jan and Dave, who are accompanying us to Piedmont before heading off to other exotic European locations.
With the luggage snug in the trunk and us people comfortably on the inside, it was time to go. Our friends were very kind to offer to drive, especially considering they will have to put up with us (or more correctly – me) for the next ten days. I’ve been practicing some of my best jokes in Italian – “Prendi mia moglie, per favore”.
The ride up went fairly quick, but there’s no avoiding the traffic on the QEW. Arriving in Toronto, we parked the car and then shuttled over to the terminal to check in for our flight. The kiosk line wasn’t too long, so after dropping off our luggage we headed to security. There was a separate business class line, which allowed us to zoom through security.
Rather than wait at the gate, we were able to relax in the Air Canada Signature Lounge until flight time. This was by far the best lounge we have made use of. Besides being a refuge from the masses and noise of the terminal, they offered a free buffet, free drinks and a free three course dinner.
We’re not talking Mac -n- cheese and a burger either. How about a duck confit salad, followed by a main entree of braised veal for three of us and ricotta cavatelli for me, finished off with chocolate hazelnut mousse, pistachio ice cream or goat cheese cheese cake. The meal was awesome, the wines were great pairings and the service was impeccable. Kudos to Air Canada and Pearson Airport.
This is our first flight on Air Canada and it was a fairly easy decision to make. Firstly, the flight is direct to Milan, Italy at times that work well in our itinerary. And secondly, it was a huge savings to fly business class, with lay flat seats. Between the price and the exchange on the dollar it was a no-brainer – and I’m good at those!
Unfortunately, our plane was delayed in arriving from Vancouver, which caused us to leave late. Instead of leaving at 10:25pm, we actually departed about 11:50pm. The flight itself went well, the meal was good, though since we had already had that scrumptious meal we just picked at the main parts – good chicken.
The seats were a delight, especially the part where they fold down into lay flat beds to snooze. The crew were all very professional, plus friendly and efficient.
Arriving at Milan Malpensa Airport, our first adventure would be passport control. They now use the automated machines to check passports, followed by an official who stamps your passport. The process took about five minutes – some adventure!
Beginning in 2021, you will also need to have a Visa to travel to Europe from the US, including travels to the EU countries. You can read about that here: Visas to Europe Might be time to plan a trip to Ohio or Iowa or some other non-touristy US locations.
Since we were feeling like Rockstars, we had a shuttle driver waiting for us at the airport. After collecting our bags, we walked out to find our driver Mauro holding a “Tom Herkey” sign. Cool! It was so much easier than having to take the train to Milan, then back to Turin and then another to Alba.