When we last connected, our group of intrepid travelers were heading back to the hotel to rest up before dinner.
Feeling a bit refreshed, the group gathered and we headed over to the Matsunaga Waygu Yakinuku restaurant. We had an amazing multi-course dinner with the main attraction being thin slices of beef that we got to barbecue ourselves.
Each table is provided with their own grill and you can prepare your beef the way you prefer it. Every course was delicious and we all had a wonderful time. Eating and enjoying each other’s company….a magical evening in Kyoto.
Well sated, we returned to the hotel for a good night’s rest before setting out in the morning.
We started the day by splitting the group in two. Half of the group went with Fergal to the Nijo-Jo Castle, while the other half went with Take to the Kiyomizudera temple. The groups would then switch after lunch to visit the other sites.
To start, we took the subway for a few stops to get near to the entrance. From there, we took a taxi up the steep road leading to the entrance. Once inside the ‘gates’, we needed to make our way up to the main part of the temple.
The area was packed with visitors, making walking up a slow process. With so many people, we also had to stand and wait to be able to view the sites. We did get to see some wonderful sites along the way. Here are a few of them…
After walking around the Temple area for a while, the crowds were growing even larger.
So, we moved on to our next location. On the walk over, we passed through an area with people crawling through a hole in a stone.
It turns out that it is thought by passing through the opening you can leave behind a bad relationship. When you return through the hole, your relationship will be better or you’ll be ready to move on to a new relationship. Good luck to them all.
We also passed by an Art Museum in the Gion area, which is home to the Geisha community.
And just in case the urge hit upon people, we also passed by a “Love Hotel”. The rates were reasonable, but we were booked for the day already.
We wanted it to be called the “Love Shack” so we could sing the song.Henninji Temple Entrance
We finally reached our destination, the Henninji Temple. The temple was beautiful, but our group was beginning to tire from all the walking at the first temple. However, we persevered.
After walking around the garden areas and meditation rooms, we made our way to the temple.
The highlight of the temple is the hand painted ceiling design.
The original was a small hand drawn version.
A tiring morning of walking did not leave us longing for more, so Sue and I, along with another couple, took a cab back to our hotel and opted out of the afternoon sessions.
Everything was incredible to see, but with my sore back, self preservation mode kicked in. I needed a rest from the walking.
But that wasn’t the end of the day…not by a long shot. A little rest was needed, but we were still hungry for lunch. We took our lunch money, added in some of our own and went for lunch in the hotel.
A French restaurant can help soothe any pain away.
We approached the Maître d’ and asked if we might be seated without a reservation and he warmly welcomed us in.
They had a special lunch offer that we couldn’t pass up. Complimented by some nice wine, this was just what the doctor ordered.
A smile of contentment.Fall vegetable purée.Scallops, puff pastry and miniature potato mousse.Salmon, autumn vegetables with a creamy pea purée.Waygu beef fillet with roasted autumn root vegetables.Cinnamon ice cream with dried apple, puff pastry with custard and apple pieces with cinnamon.Madeline, financier and jelly fruit.Yes, it was delicious !
What a wonderful treat. We made our way back to the room to relax for a while before another treat this evening.
For our final evening in Kyoto, we went to a performance of a show called “Gear”. It was a story told through non-verbal performances. It featured a mime, break dancer, juggler, a magician and a doll that comes to life. It was an incredible show. Though photos were not allowed during the show performance, I have a ‘before’ and ‘after’ to stir your imagination.
The factoryThe aftermath The Cast
Our group walked back to the hotel together and the consensus was the show was brilliant.
A beautiful evening in Kyoto
The morning would bring new adventures as we moved on from Kyoto.
After that wonderful welcoming dinner, the itinerary ramped up with visits to shrines, temples and gardens. Our regular guide and fearless leader Fergal turned the group over to two local guides who conducted the day’s tours.
Our guide was Mr. Takeshi Suzuki or Take as said to call him. He lives in Osaka and was a former schoolteacher. He has been a guide for twenty-five years and has worked with InsideJapan for fifteen years.
Our day started with a visit to Sanjusangendo.
Sanjusangendo is a Buddhist Temple that is known for its magnificent display of 1,001 statues of Kannon, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy, along with 28 guardian statues. It was founded in 1164 AD and is considered a national treasure.
The temple hall that houses the statues is 120 meters longest and is Japan’s longest wooden structure. At the center of the building is a large golden statue of Kannon. Flanking that statue on each side are five hundred human-sized statues of nearly identical Kannon standing in ten rows. Along the front, you find the twenty-eight guardians, starting with Fujin and ending with Raijin.
Unfortunately, photos are not allowed, however the link will take you to a site that includes images.
The Kyoto Diagoji Temple is a Buddhist temple located just outside of Kyoto. The temple is on the UNESCO World Heritage site list. Our visit included a walk along the beautiful and extensive grounds, a stop at the elegant five-story pagoda and a look inside the museum.
The pagoda
Inside the museum:
We really enjoyed the visits. The grounds at both temples were awesome and inspiring. Learning a little bit about the traditions, religion and philosophies was very interesting.
We stopped for a lunch break at a market. Everyone split up and chose what they wanted. Sue, Rana, Take and I chose an Izakaya for our meal. We all enjoyed a lunch setup that they offered, with Sue and I both having the pork cutlet with a side of ramen.
Since I was a ‘smarty pants’, replying to some simple statements in Japanese, Take asked where I learned. I showed him my ‘cheat sheet’ I use to help me along and as a former teacher, he started testing me on the words and phrases. Talk about pressure! And in case you’re wondering, I did mess up one phrase, but got a “Very Good” and a happy nod.
Our final stop of the day was at the Okazaki Shrine.
The Okazaki Shrine is located in Kyoto and is a Shinto shrine. Its prominent features are the beautiful, tranquil gardens. I won’t ruin the tranquility with words, so enjoy the walk via the pictures…
Our walk was delightful, so lush and green with water features that awaken your senses. Bridges and buildings just blend into the environment. Very beautiful!
At one point in the walk, there was the stone walkway. Travel mate Liz and I walked it; she with much more grace. For me, it was a confidence boost. A small challenge to overcome an inner fear with a positive attitude.
As an aside, we were told afterwards that there have been people on the tour who didn’t quite make it across and finished the tour with squishy footwear and wet clothes.
Overall, it was a very interesting day. We did quite a bit of walking and we were all happy to get back to the hotel to rest for a bit before dinner.
We started our day by gathering with the group and boarding our bus to the Hiroshima train station. There was definitely an increase in the traffic on the roads – and then there was the train station, bustling with activity and commuters.
We once again traveled by bullet train. On the way to Kyoto, we stopped in the city of Himeji where we visited the Himeji Castle.
On our way to the castle, we stopped at a grocery store to buy some items for a picnic lunch.
Some simple sandwiches, fruit, yogurt and pastries were among the selections du jour. A quick jaunt down to a little park area provided us with a setting to enjoy our lunch. Once finished, we made our way to the castle.
They’ve done a beautiful job of maintaining the castle and surrounding gardens. Himeji Castle or the ‘White Heron Castle’ is one of Japan’s twelve original castles and is on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
Himeji Castle
Some folks climbed the stairs to enjoy the views from the fifth story, while others just went up a few stories and still others just viewed it from the outside gardens. For those who know us, which group were we a part of?
It was then time to head back to the train station for the second portion of the day’s travel. We once again took the bullet train with our destination being the former Japanese capital city – Kyoto.
The trip to Kyoto was under an hour as we were traveling at an average speed of about 200 mph. It was again a smooth ride all the way.
When we arrived at Kyoto Station, there was a bus waiting to take us to our hotel. Our luggage had been pre-shipped, so it was waiting for us at the hotel when we arrived.
We stayed at the Hotel Okura and it was a wonderful hotel to use as our base. It was originally built in 1888 and presents itself very grandly.
Our room was on the corner of the 12th floor and was perfect. It was spacious, had a very nice shower and bath, a comfortable bed, a small couch and a beautiful view.
We had a bit of time to relax in the room before going out for dinner. Unfortunately, Sue was feeling a bit off and decided to stay behind and rest up for the evening.
As a special treat, we had a dinner that included a lovely performance by a Maiko and a Geisha. Along with the performance, we had a question and answer session and we were also privileged to have a photo session.
Our lovely Maiko and GeishaThat’s me in the center.
They graciously answered all of our questions. Here are just a few highlights from their responses…
The Maiko is seventeen years old and the Geisha is twenty-two.
The Maiko wears a kimono that is more colorful and “cute”. It takes her about an hour to apply her makeup and that is her real hair that she gets styled weekly. Someone helps her to get dressed and ties her obi (sash). The obi can consist of up to eight meters of fabric.
The Maiko said the hardest skill for her to learn is the dancing.
Since she now lives in the Geisha house and her training takes up much of her time, she said she does miss her family.
As for the Geisha, her kimono is less colorful symbolizing a more mature appearance. Besides the color, the sleeves are shorter as is her obi.
Her makeup is different to again look more mature, including their eye makeup and lipstick. Geishas wear wigs that cover their natural hair.
Geishas can stop or retire whenever they want. There are Geishas that are in their eighties.
Those were just a few highlights, but the conversation was very interesting.
We concluded our evening with a delicious multi-course meal.
We took taxis back to the hotel afterwards, to get some rest. The next couple of days would be a whirlwind of touring in Kyoto.
Today is one of those days that shouldn’t excite us as much as it does – our first ride on the Shinkansen or Japanese Bullet Train. We’ve traveled by train plenty of times in different countries, but this is one that we’ve been looking forward to for a while. We’re feeling the need for speed!
We will be leaving from Tokyo Station and will arrive at Hiroshima Station for the second stop on our tour.
Tokyo Station
Though it looks serene from the outside, once inside it is a whole other story. The are so many different trains that run through the station that there are always crowds of people hustling to catch one. We made our way over to the Shinkansen platform, grabbed a few snacks for the ride and then headed on board.
If you’ve never heard of the Bullet train, it is Japan’s High-Speed rail network. The trains are comfortable, fast and look really cool. For our maiden voyage, we will be traveling from Tokyo to Hiroshima. The trip is 804 km and will take us about 4 hours.
Our first journey was a success. Watching the scenery changing as we zipped along made the time fly by. We still have two more train trips ahead in our schedule.
Our second trip location was Hiroshima. When you hear about the area, your first thoughts go back to that fateful day – August 6, 1945 – when the US dropped the atomic bomb “Little Boy” on the city. It made the city the first target of a nuclear weapon in the history of mankind.
Today, Hiroshima is a modern thriving city. It’s been rebuilt and its current population is four times larger than it was in 1945. People have moved on and the despair has been replaced by hope. Peace memorials stand side by side with memorials to the victims.
Our group was solemn as we quietly walked through the Peace Garden and Children’s Garden. We saw the remains of the only building that wasn’t completely destroyed by the blast, then walked along the Peace Pond over to the War Museum and finished off with the Victims’ Museum.
It was honestly a very difficult day. Wars are not fun; the leaders of the world who choose to create wars are not good people. It should be the people that start the wars that should suffer, not the innocent people trying to live a good life and bringing up the children of the future.
Here are some photos from our first day in Hiroshima:
Plaque marking the Hypocenter of the bombing.The only building that survived.Peace PondPeace GardenChildren’s Garden and monument.
I didn’t take any photos inside of the two museums – it didn’t feel right to do so. It was difficult to see the destruction and read the stories of the victims.
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After leaving the museums, we took a taxi back to the hotel to check in and relax for a while before dinner.
We stayed at the Hiroshima Hilton and we had a very nice room. There were two double beds, a small sitting area, a shower room, plus a bathroom. The bathroom came equipped with one of the modern Toto toilets, which was a treat. It also featured a beautiful view over the city.
Our dinner was at an Okonomiyaki restaurant. Okonomiyaki is a specialty of Hiroshima and their style is famous throughout Japan.
We started out with an order of Gyozas, which are fried dumplings filled with pork and leeks. They were delicious!
Sue and I then shared an Okonomiyaki made with noodles, green onions, pork, shrimp and cabbage. Those ingredients all get fried together on the huge griddle and served.
Though presented with a fork, we devoured our plate of deliciousness using chopsticks with only a couple of wayward pieces not reaching our mouths.
It was good food, good fun and good company with our table mates Gary and Deborah.
The short walk back to the hotel was done in extremely pleasant nighttime temperatures and was a great way to end our day.
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For our second day in Hiroshima, we took a boat ride out to Miyajima Island.
The boat ride took about 45 minutes. We traveled down the river for about 20 minutes before heading into the open sea. Along the way, we passed by oyster farms as we splashed our way through the waves and wakes from the other boats.
Miyajima Island is home to a shrine and its welcoming Floating Torii Gate. The gate is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The island is also well known for its free-roaming deer. They are tame, though they can be annoying when you have food in your hands and even more aggressive during mating season.
The island was quite busy, so it was slow moving as we walked along. Our route to the shrine took us through an area with many shops and places to eat.
Through the exuberance of our guide Fergal, we were introduced a delightful snack called a ‘Momiji manjū’.
They are a pastry, similar to a pressed croissant, but with delicious fillings such as custard cream, chocolate, apple, caramel, sweet potato or red bean paste. We’re told that some of the fillings change seasonally. They are made in the shape of a maple leaf. But you’re probably wondering…were they good?
Honestly, we tried them with the group. I had a caramel and Sue had a custard cream. We then circled back around to try them again just to make sure we could appropriately describe them to friends. So after our third one… the verdict was ‘Yum’!
So with that settled, our next stop was the Torii Gate.
Gazing out over the sea, you see the gate looking like it is floating above the water. However, we arrived at low tide, so people were actually walking out to the gate and touching it. They say timing is everything! Ours was off.
But it was still quite a sight to see.
We continued on with our walk and made it to the shrine.
It was quite odd being there during the low tide. What would normally have been tranquil waters surrounding the temple had to be replaced by your imagination during quiet contemplation of life.
No matter, it was still wonderful to see.
We continued our walk and our next stop was at a Yakitori stand where we were able to try some grilled meat skewers. Feeling unbrave, Sue and I went with the chicken skewers and they were delicious. Other choices included vegetable, squid, pork and beef, among others.
The pesky deer made an appearance and I think we all spent more time trying to avoid them than enjoying our little lunch break.
We then had some time to wander on our own. We were originally going to take the cable car up to the high point of the island, however the line was long and we couldn’t be sure we’d get back in time for our boat.
So instead, we joined a small group that had another destination in mind…the Miyajima Brewery.
Your eyes are not deceiving you…that is Sue drinking a beer.
After our refreshments, we took a nice stroll back to the port area to do some people watching. Each ferry brought with them large groups of people, including some school groups. I was glad we were heading out as things were getting busier.
We also learned that Miyajima is a sister island to Mont St. Michel in France. So we’ve now visited with both sisters and found them to be delightful.
Upon returning to the mainland, we had some time to relax before dinner. We kept it simple at a small cafe near the hotel as many folks were tired from the day’s activities.
Since we are staying at the same hotel that the tour uses, we had no travel to worry about today. We awoke to bright skies and were ready to start the day.
We met up with the group at 8:30 am for our private bus ride to the Taiko-Lab for our drumming session. We reached our destination just before 9:00 am and were ushered into the drum room. After a little bit of explanation, we all took our places and the fun began.
It was a little dodgy sounding at first until we all found our rhythm. Once we did, we were banging out some great sounds. Ok, it was just so-so, but at least we were in sync.
Drummers ready for action. There is no secret code in the photo.
Our instructor – Ichi – was very patient and encouraging. Personally, I assumed he had earplugs in place.
Ichi showing us how it’s supposed to sound.We rocked it!
Well, that was both invigorating and fun.
Next we were off to visit the Meiji Shrine. It was built in the center of a man-made park to honor Emperor Meiji and his wife. Yes, the park was created by the planting of this forest of trees, bushes and flowers that were all donated from throughout Japan.
The walking paths provide a beautiful and tranquil route on your way to the temple complex.
Before heading through the Torii Gate, we made a brief stop at the donation area. Here they displayed the barrels of wine and sake that were contributed to the shrine.
The wine barrels were emptied long ago. The Sake comes annually.
Back on track, we made our way through the Torii Gate and up the path towards the shrine. Along the way were displays of chrysanthemums, which happened to be Meiji’s favorites.
As we neared the bend in the pathway, we were asked to step aside as the Monks were walking in a ceremonial ritual and coming our way.
After they passed, we continued up towards the shrine. There was a display which included a poem written by Meiji for his wife.
Finally we neared the Torii Gate that led to the shrine. Passing through, we were able to see the entryway to the very busy courtyard. There were chairs and a platform set up for a “close to beginning” ceremony celebrating the start of the new month.
There was a dance performance along with a musical performance. Both were nice and the crowd was pleased with the welcoming ritual.
Needing a place to sit for a few minutes, we found some benches in a historical display area. There were two large displays that we found interesting.
It was a delightful visit to see the shrine, but also to enjoy nature on such a beautiful day.
Welcome to Asakusa
Next on the agenda was a bit of lunch before we explored the Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa. The group split up based on what they were interested in eating. Two of our travel companions joined Sue and I as we were headed to an Udon noodle shop. Unfortunately, our directions were confused, so we ended up going to a Sukiyaki restaurant instead.
It turned out to be very good. Sue and I both had the sukiyaki beef bowl with rice and by some miracle, we were able to enjoy it while eating with chopsticks. I not saying that we’ll be giving away our silverware when we get back home, but we did finish every bit of lunch.
Having staved off starvation, the group gathered back together and made our way down to the temple.
We entered the road to the temple via the Kaminarimon Gate. (Aka The Thunder Gate)
The temple area was extremely crowded so it took some extra time to get to the Temple. All along the road are vendors selling merchandise, foods and crafts, which mean the crowds gather around each shop to peer in or make purchases.
As we finally approached the Temple, there was an incense burner where you could stop to purify yourself with the smoke before continuing up to the Temple.
Inside was an altar area where the monks and worshippers could engage in prayer.
For worshippers only.
Following our walk about, we headed back to the bus to be returned to the hotel.
Sue and I decided to hang back from dinner and just rest up. We needed to be up early to get our luggage down to the lobby for transport to Hiroshima in the morning.
After packing up the items we had to have, we set off to get a good nights sleep.
So yes, there is definitely a bit of jet lag, but we were feeling pretty good. We slept comfortably, with the city lights acting as a bit of a night light.
We were a bit tired when we arrived, so besides looking at the city lights, we didn’t see much. Gazing out of the window this morning, we saw that we were not just near the Sumo Arena; we were actually directly across the street.
Ryogoku Kokugikan Sumo Arena
It rained a bit this morning, but by 8:00 am it stopped and it appeared we would just have a mostly cloudy day. The original forecast had called for an all-day rain, so we were extremely happy with just clouds.
Taking a deep breath, we headed out for a bit of a walk along the river. The language barrier can be somewhat intimidating. As we walked along, we had no idea what the various signs were saying, although there are some signs that did include some English. Google Translate was our friend.
Our ultimate destination today is the Asakusa Sumo Center where we have a Sumo exhibition and lunch scheduled.
We arrived earlier than necessary, so after looking around we made our way over to the nearby Senso-ji Shrine area.
Walking over was a real treat, as we had the opportunity to see so much of the vibrant surrounding area.
Arriving at the temple area, it was quite busy and extremely beautiful. We had arrived in the side-area near the performance pagoda and the five-story pagoda. There is an open area there where many people walk and also rest.
We strolled around a bit and then found two open seats to rest for a while. The clouds gave a slight sprinkle before passing and bringing bright sunshine.
Five story pagoda
Our seats were perfect for people watching. There were people from many different countries, some tour groups and, of course, many Japanese. My favorite were the people who came to the temple in traditional kimonos. There are a number of places that will rent kimonos, style your hair and some actually provide a photographer to capture the moment.
The temple area was crowded, but not as bad as I’ve seen it in pictures. People are respectful and very orderly as they prepare to visit the temple. Visitors can approach the temple, but only worshippers can enter into the temple.
These are a few pictures from around the gate area looking down towards the temple.
A large Buddha statue is next to the temple. The temple itself was dedicated to the Goddess of Mercy.
After a delightful afternoon of sightseeing and people watching, it was time to head back to the Sumo club.
Asakusa Sumo Club
Checking in, we were shown to our seats and immediately received our lunch and ordered a beverage.
When we finished our meal, it was time for the show to begin.
Out came our hostess – Lala – to welcome us and to talk a little about the origin of Sumo.
To begin the afternoon, we had the pleasure of a Geisha performing a traditional dance.
Next, Lala returned to prepare us for the exhibition. We learned a couple of cheers to work up the crowd and then the Dohyō (or ring) was blessed before the grapplers were introduced.
The blessing
And next came the combatants:
AsanokumaAsanishiki
We were seated on the West, so our guy to cheer on was Asanokuma. We had so much fun cheering them both on and shouting out our cheers during the action.
Action shots
After their bout, there was an opportunity for the crowd to challenge the grapplers. No, I did not participate.
It was all great fun and then we finished off with a souvenir photo.
Afterwards, we walked back to the Senso-Ji shrine hoping that it would be lit up for the evening. Some lights were on, but not the main ones. Perhaps we can sneak back to see them lit before we leave Tokyo.
We made our way back to the hotel through the brightly lit streets, both thinking a little dinner would be good.
Once back at the hotel, we rested our legs for a bit before getting washed up for dinner. We decided to return to the hotel restaurant as we had enjoyed the previous evenings meal there (and didn’t want to walk again this evening).
Our server from the previous evening’s meal saw us walk in and excitedly ushered us over to a table. We had another wonderful meal and enjoyed the hospitality of the entire serving staff. We even got to meet and thank the chef as she crossed the room.
Sue started with a green salad, while I chose a shrimp cocktail, then we both had the confit chicken.
For dessert, Sue had a custard pudding, while I had a cheesecake with lots of fruit along with a special send off.
Again, the warmth of the staff was incredible. When we were leaving and stopped to say: “Gochisosama deshita” their eyes lit up with happiness.
With jet lag still present and all the walking today, it took no time to wash up and then fall asleep.
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Tonight we start the official tour and get to meet our travel mates. Before then, it was off for walk.
We headed down to the riverside and then took a little walk. The day is beautiful with blue skies, a slight breeze and temps about 23 or 73 back home.
Walking along, we came upon some reproductions of old Edo-era woodblock artworks that were gorgeous.
Sumida Artwork Installations
We then came up from the river on the opposite side of the Ryoguko Rail Station. We walked around the Sumo Arena and then cut through the APA Hotel. We thought we might grab a bite to eat in their cafe, but they had already stopped serving for lunch.
We continued back around the corner and saw our hotel just up ahead – so we knew we hadn’t gotten lost. Approaching the hotel, we ran into our server from the past two nights. She asked if she could take a picture with us.
A little walk back to the room provided an opportunity to rest up for the evening ahead – but we were still hungry. A little search of my sheets turned up a small Italian restaurant that was open all day long. So as they say, when in Tokyo…
It turned out to be less than a five minute walk to get there and there were a few people inside when we arrived. As this was our first outside the ‘hotel safety-net’ meal, we were a little nervous, but it was all for naught as they welcomed us heartily.
We tried the best Japanese we could muster and ordered a pizza each along with a carafe of Chianti wine. It was a small restaurant. However, we learned that they also had seating upstairs which made it a not-so-small restaurant.
Looking around the room, there was a cat motif and they were playing classical music. It was a little quirky, but we weren’t there to judge the decor. When our pizzas arrived, they looked delicious. When we tasted them, they WERE delicious ! I had one with prosciutto and arugula and Sue’s had salami and olives.
Miagalore Restaurant
We both enjoyed them very much and cost wise, they were extremely reasonable. Hooray for our adventure. Afterwards, we walked back to the hotel and relaxed before meeting our tour mates.
As the seven o’clock hour approached, we headed down to the hotel lobby to meet the group. Fergal was waiting there when we left the elevator, then one by one the others arrived – sixteen in total.
After a brief time greeting and chatting, we headed out for dinner. We had about a ten minute walk over to an izakaya, which is sort of like a gastropub. People will usually meet there for drinks and small tapas style plates. We had a small section to ourselves with four separate tables. Fergal had pre-ordered a boat-load of food to be shared and then ordered drinks as required.
The Izakaya and our leader Fergal.
It was all good and everyone seemed to enjoy getting to know a little bit about each other. There are five couples and six single women in our group. We are a mix of Brits, Canadians and Americans.
Afterwards, we walked back to the hotel enjoying the lights.
Singing “Downtown” just seemed fitting.
Back up to the room for a little relaxation before turning in.
We made it through the days on our own without a problem. The anxiety has been washed away and replaced by happy anticipation.
We must have blinked more times than we thought. We went from deciding what to pack, to checking-in to our hotel in Tokyo. It started when we received our travel packet from Inside Japan with all our paperwork. That was when we eased over the big hill of time’s roller coaster!
So let me rewind the tape and tell you about the past couple of days. We started with a ride from home to the Best Western Carlingview Hotel near Toronto’s Pearson Airport. We used Airports Taxi Transfers and the ride was easy. Our driver had another airport pickup after us, so he didn’t spare the horsepower.
Upon arriving, we checked into the hotel for our overnight stay. Our room wasn’t anything fancy, but it was very clean and comfortable. We had dinner at the hotel’s restaurant – Flight Path and enjoyed it very much. We both had the homemade Butter Chicken and it was tasty. Afterwards, we just relaxed for the remainder of the evening.
After a good night’s sleep, we hopped on the hotel’s shuttle and made our way over to the airport. There were a few people hanging out at the airport, but we checked in, made it through security and over to our gate without any problems.
Since we were early, we took advantage of Air Canada’s Maple Leaf Lounge and grabbed a little breakfast. It was a great place to comfortably relax before our flight.
Our flight from Toronto to Tokyo was a direct flight on an Air Canada Boeing 777-300ER. There was plenty of time to watch a movie, eat and catch some shut-eye. Thankfully, we were able to fly business class, so we had a little more room to get comfortable, but it was still a long flight, timing in at just over fourteen hours.
This was our first trip across the Pacific Ocean and the expanse of the ocean was really eye-opening. That’s a whole lot of water!
I was surprised by our route. From Toronto our path took us across Canada, over Alaska and then along the Russian coast. A look at a globe makes it all make sense, but who carries a globe with them.
Eventually, we did land at Tokyo’s Haneda Airport. Touching down on solid ground was a nice feeling. The next nice feeling was de-planing and having space to stretch and use our legs again – even if it was just the short walk to immigration.
We had used the Visit Japan App to enter our preliminary immigration and customs information, so armed with our barcodes, passports and travel itinerary, we headed to immigration.
Honestly, we were shocked. Using the kiosk with our barcoded personal data, we cruised through customs and immigration in less than ten minutes. Our advice is to do the preliminary tasks to make the transaction much easier for yourself. Those having to fill out the paper documentation spent a lot more time than we did.
Once we were through with our entry procedures, we grabbed our luggage and headed out. The Inside Japan folks had transport waiting for us via Green Tomato Shuttle. We spotted a person holding a ‘Green Tomato’ logo sign and after simple greetings, we boarded the shuttle and were whisked to our hotel.
Ok, maybe not whisked in the true sense…as we were in the middle of rush hour traffic. Despite all of the public transportation, which also looked filled to the brim, there were vehicles everywhere. The good news is that I didn’t have to do the driving!
Ok, we’re caught up. Now back to our regularly scheduled vacation.
We are staying in a section of the city known as Sumida. Our hotel, The Gate Hotel Ryogoku by Hulic, is located right along the Sumida River and the evening lights in all directions look beautiful.
The lobby is located on the second floor of the building and they have a lounge and a restaurant available – that we will be trying shortly!
We met our tour guide, Mr. Fergal Fox, who was waiting for us in the reception area when we arrived. He’s an Irishman living in Tokyo and seems to be a good fit personality-wise for us. We chatted for a few minutes and then received some documentation for the days ahead.
Our room is located on the 4th floor. It’s smallish, but spotlessly clean and has everything that we need – including lots of outlets.
Our room
We had a very nice dinner in the hotel restaurant called ‘The Anchor Ryogoku Riverside’. The meal of scallops and mushrooms along with a fresh salad was delicious, as was the wine.
Our first meal – delightful
However, the standout of the evening was the wonderful staff. They allowed us to use our bits of Japanese and helped with pronunciation. The were delightful and helped ease us through our first evening in Tokyo. Arigato gosaimasu!
After dinner, we went back to the room hoping that we’d be able to sleep. After washing up, I started working on writing this blog entry only to have my eyes get extremely heavy. Rather than making lots of mistakes, I put my head down and went out like a light. Sue finished up and joined me in slumberland.
Although it has just been a month, it already feels like our river cruise was ages ago. The hands on the clock seem to move so fast that we may use them as a fan. With that said, it won’t be long before we are heading off to Japan.
I spoke with our travel consultant Deborah, from Inside Japan Tours, this week to ensure that the plans are intact and that there isn’t anything that we need to do before the trip arrives. I received a “yes” and a “no”, which is just what I was hoping to hear.
Yes, the plans are intact. All the arrangements have been taken care of. Nothing for us to worry about.
And No, nothing to do until we get closer to the date.
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So while I’m ‘sort of’ patiently waiting, I thought I would share some of the trip details with you. It will serve as a reminder to us and give you a glimpse of what’s to come.
We will be spending a total of nineteen days on this adventure. We’ll be flying out of Toronto Pearson International Airport (YYZ). Since our flight will depart around noon, we decided to stay overnight in Toronto. We booked a room at the Best Western Premier Toronto Airport Carlingview Hotel. It looks nice and they have a shuttle to the airport. No rushing and worrying about morning traffic.
The next morning we’ll head over to the airport for our flight to Tokyo. We’ll be flying on Air Canada and we have a non-stop flight. The flight is fourteen hours and ten minutes and we will be landing at Tokyo Haneda International Airport (HND). We’ll arrive in the late afternoon. After collecting our luggage and clearing passport control and customs, there will be a driver waiting to take us to our hotel.
Our hotel, the Gate Hotel Ryogoku, is located in the Asakusa area of Tokyo. From what I understand, this is the more traditional section of Tokyo. We’ll have two days to explore on our own before the tour officially begins. We already have a reservation for one afternoon outing that we’re looking forward to seeing.
The following day, we will meet up with the tour director and the rest of our tour group. This is a small group tour, so there will only be 16 of us traveling together. We’re curious to meet our cohorts on this adventure.
The itinerary is a mix of sight-seeing, cultural activities, shrine and temple visits and other fun activities. The following is a quick look at the planned tour itinerary:
Day 1 Tokyo – Get to know the group leader, the group and the area before enjoying a welcoming dinner together.
Day 2 Tokyo – We’ll start the day with an exhilarating taiko drumming lesson, where we’ll be introduced to the energetic, choreographed movements of Japan’s traditional drumming. Afterwards, we’ll set off on a walking tour of Omotesando, Aoyama, and Harajuku, admiring the district’s striking architecture and vibrant atmosphere. Our stroll will lead us to Meiji Shrine, one of Tokyo’s most important spiritual sites, where we’ll learn about Shinto traditions and the fascinating contrasts between old and new Japan. That afternoon, we’ll take a private coach across town to Asakusa, the most traditional area in the city. Here, we’ll wander the historic streets, explore lively market stalls, and visit Senso-ji, Tokyo’s oldest and most iconic temple.
Day 3 Hiroshima – In the morning, we’ll hop on the Shinkansen, Japan’s world-famous bullet train, for a speedy journey westward to Hiroshima. For lunch, we’ll sample the typical fare of the Japanese traveller – an ekiben “station lunchbox” – complete with included origami set to keep us entertained. On arrival in Hiroshima, we’ll travel by private coach from the station to our hotel and have a chance to freshen up before we head to the Peace Memorial Park and Museum to learn a little more about the events of 6th August 1945. That evening, we’ll lighten the mood with a bit of cookery: learning how to make okonomiyaki, the cabbage or noodle-based pancake typical of this part of Japan.
Day 4 Hiroshima – On day four, we’ll jump on a boat at the Peace Park for the 45-minute journey across Hiroshima Bay to the island of Miyajima, a beautiful island on the Seto Inland Sea. Though Miyajima is most famous for its World Heritage Shrine and “floating” torii gate, we’ll enjoy the traditional town centre and its friendly local deer.
Day 5 Kyoto – That morning, we’ll leave Hiroshima behind and head east toward Kyoto, Japan’s former capital and cultural heart. Traveling once again by Shinkansen, we’ll stop off along the way in Himeji for a visit to one of Japan’s finest castles. Himeji is one of just a handful of original feudal castles left in Japan, and it’s the biggest of all. After a five-year facelift, it’s never looked so impressive!
Finally, arriving in Kyoto, we’ll check in to our hotel and have time to relax and freshen up before an evening that is sure to be one of the trip highlights. We’ll be joined at dinner this evening by a Maiko (trainee geisha) who will give a dance performance followed by time for photos and questions, giving us a rare insight into this secretive world.
Day 6 Kyoto – On day six we’ll have a full day of sightseeing in Kyoto, giving us an in-depth introduction to this historic city. Traveling by private coach, we’ll stop at the Golden Pavilion at Kinkaku-ji, the Zen rock garden at Ryoan-ji Temple, and some other of the city’s hidden sites.
Day 7 Kyoto – On day seven, we’ll have another day to explore Kyoto and its impressive cultural heritage. The day’s sightseeing will include visits to Gion, the old geisha quarter and Kennin-ji Temple, one of the five most important Zen temples in Kyoto. Finally, to round off our first busy day in Kyoto, we’ll head out that evening to GEAR – an exciting, non-verbal theatre show that will provide an interesting modern counterpoint to Kyoto’s more traditional arts.
Day 8 Awara Onsen – We’ll travel by private coach to Awara Onsen, stopping along the way to explore the partially reconstructed ruins of Ichijodani Castle Town. We’ll also visit the beautiful Daianzen-ji Temple, where we will enjoy a lesson in zazen meditation under the tutelage of a temple priest – all the better to appreciate the quiet beauty of our surroundings.
That evening we’ll spend the night at a traditional Japanese inn, or ryokan, with an included dinner of fine kaiseki cuisine. We also might try out the hot-spring baths – an integral part of any ryokan stay!
Day 9 Kanazawa – We will be taking our private coach on to our next destination: Kanazawa. Kanazawa retains some of Japan’s best-preserved old-town districts, has one of the top 3 Japanese gardens in the country and is known for its rich artistic traditions.
On arrival in Kanazawa, we’ll begin with a visit to Kenroku-en, one of Japan’s top three gardens, renowned for its seasonal beauty and meticulously designed landscapes. We’ll then explore the 21st Century Museum, known for its striking contemporary art and interactive exhibits.
Day 10 Kanazawa – We will begin the day sightseeing in the old-town districts of Higashi chaya and Nagamachi, to see these beautifully preserved areas and pay a visit to the Nomura Samurai House as well. That afternoon, we will get the chance to make delicate Japanese confectionery with a local expert, before heading back to the hotel.
Day 11 Tokyo – On day 11 it’s time to jump back on the bullet train for the return journey to Tokyo, where we’ll spend our final two nights of the group tour in Japan. Arriving around lunchtime, we’ll have plenty of time for an afternoon of sightseeing by public transport and on foot – including the lovely East Gardens of the Imperial Palace, Tokyo Tower, and Zozo-ji Temple.
Day 12 Tokyo – With a final full day of the group tour in Tokyo, we’ll have the ability to see the National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation on Odaiba Island, a man-made island in Tokyo Bay. In the afternoon, we will be taking in the upmarket Ginza district before our final farewell group dinner.
Day 13 Tokyo – Alas, after breakfast, our tour will come to an end. Though the tour will be over, Sue and I will have two more days to explore Tokyo before we fly home. We have a few places that we want to see in case we don’t visit them on the official tour.
We’ll be staying at the same hotel, Hyatt House Shibuya, that we stayed with the tour.
When it is time to leave the “Land of the Rising Sun”, transportation will be provided for us back to Haneda Airport. We will once again be flying home direct to Toronto on Air Canada. It will be a long flight, but hopefully one filled with marvelous memories of our time in Japan.
Upon arrival, we’ll have travel arrangements in place to get us from Toronto Pearson Airport back home to Buffalo.
So that’s it. Sound interesting?
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So for now, we’ll continue to watch YouTube videos to learn more about what awaits us in Japan, and to try and learn just a little bit of Japanese. We’ll exchange some dollars for Yen and make sure our walking shoes are broken in.
There is a Japanese restaurant close to our house, so we’ll also be trying out some different dishes to learn a bit more about the cuisine and how to properly use chopsticks. Currently, my attempts at using them have left me glad that we use forks!
That’s the update. We’re excited and a little anxious, but we’re all in for the adventure. And with that: Hitomazu, sayōnara!
They say that the early bird gets the worms. Well, I hate having to get up early so they can have my worms!
We woke up at some ungodly time so we could shower and throw the last few items in the suitcases before having to checkout. The hotel arranged for a taxi, which showed up almost instantly, and we were on our way to the airport before 7:15 am.
The taxi to the airport wasn’t cheap, but it was fast. We were able to get out of the city before rush hour and onto the Autobahn. This is where our driver shone, as we hit speeds of 145 kilometers/hour (90 mph). I swear, he didn’t look like a Formula 1 driver when we left the hotel.
When we arrived at the airline terminal, we were actually too early to check-in. We were told that 3 hours before flight time was when they opened. No problem…we just found a couple of open seats and chilled for a while…me thinking I could have slept for at least a half-hour longer.
Hello… Anyone here?
Once we did check-in, things moved along quickly. Security was easy to get through, although Sue got pulled over – probably for her racy-looking sneakers. They let her pass – no incarceration was necessary.
Passport Control was next and that went quickly too. Fingerprints and photo again, but the line moved quickly.
Next, it was a speedy shuttle ride to our gate. And then a wait for a little over an hour before boarding.
With all this room, it could be called a ‘space shuttle’.
No chasing down passengers…we actually had everyone on-board and left 10 minutes early. How’s that for miraculous?
It was a good flight, with just a handful of turbulence bumps along the way. We both ended up watching two movies and even snuck in a little nap. Dinner was delicious. We both ordered the beef cheeks and they were fork-tender and tasty.
Upon arrival, we were off the plane and down in baggage claim in less than twenty minutes. We stopped at the restrooms, grabbed our bags and stepped outside for the car service. Our driver took the scenic route, but delivered us to our doorstep without a hitch.
Despite having a wonderful time, it always feels good to return home. Especially so in knowing we left Munich before a current ten day stretch of 90 degree plus days. Timing is everything…
We both loved the river cruise and would definitely take another one. It was our first time, so we don’t have any comparison, but AmaWaterways was outstanding.
Our cabin was a good size, very comfortable and very clean. Even the bathroom was surprisingly roomy.
The meals were all excellent. There were always numerous choices at every meal. You could eat a multi-course meal or just choose something simple. There were also little snacks available throughout the day – things like cookies, nuts and trail mix.
The staff were all excellent. They were friendly, helpful and always trying to make sure you were enjoying your trip.
It wasn’t a booze cruise. Wine and beer were included during meals, and there was a daily ‘Sip and Sail’ happy hour. Drinks were always available outside of those times, but nobody seemed to go crazy. A round of five drinks cost less than 30€ (2 wines, 2 whiskey & water and one bourbon drink).
The included excursions were all well thought out. There was something for everyone and walking tours accommodated regular and slower walkers.
We personally thought that what we paid was well worth what we received in return.
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Bavarian getaway to Munich
We both really enjoyed our time in Munich. It is a city rich in history and traditions. There are plenty of things to see and experience there and nearby.
We limited ourselves to the old town area, aside from our day trip. That area is very walkable and is bigger than it looks on a map.
Public transportation is abundant – trams around the city and trains to the outside.
Bavaria / Munich is proudly defined by its beer culture. The beer halls, beer gardens and restaurants are proof of that. Mugs of beer bring people together to laugh and have a good time.
Though things look old, many of the buildings are restorations from after WWII as Munich was heavily bombed. The churches, parks and museums often include photos from before and after restorations.
Yesterday’s tour (or mountain climbing) left us both tired and a little achy. In fact, my calves refused to carry me around for a while in the morning.
When they did finally cooperate, we got cleaned up and headed over to the breakfast room. Sue opted for a chef-made omelet, while I stayed with my fresh bread and butter, cheese and ham. I even splurged and had a small slice of cake with my cappuccino this morning.
Afterwards, we took a little walk to get some fresh air and check out some of the surrounding architecture. I love the character of European buildings.
Our last official meal in Munich had to be at the famous Hofbräuhaus. This beer hall was located about 50 meters from our hotel and each evening there was a raucous crowd packing the hall. We cheated…we went mid-afternoon, when it wouldn’t be quite so crowded.
Aside from a raucous crowd, we didn’t miss out on anything. The band was still there, the food was still there, there were plenty of people and, of course, there was beer flowing!
The band was on break, Aloisius (the Beer Angel) was watching over everyone and the painted ceilings were full of charm – the beerhall experience! We picked a table and our waiter was over in a flash to get our order.
Hofbräuhaus meal
We both had the pork schnitzel, which came with a side of German potato salad and cranberry sauce, along with a side order of white asparagus with potatoes and Hollandaise sauce. Sue chose a glass of Muller-Thurgau wine, while I had the Hofbräuhaus Weiss Biere.
We really enjoyed our meal, our beverages and the surroundings. The food was delicious and it was a great way to finish up our time in Munich.
We strolled back to the hotel, as Sue wanted to get everything packed so we wouldn’t have to worry about it early in the morning. As a reward for getting the packing out of the way, we went down to the lounge and relaxed with a bottle of wine.
There was a lot of activity in the hotel lobby, so there was some great people-watching to be had. Business suits, flowery dresses, short shorts, heavy metal t-shirts, jeans and khakis. We just soaked it all in, laughed a few times, raised an eyebrow or two and enjoyed our wine.
We finished and went up to the room, since we need to get up extra early in the morning. It was a relaxing day and a nice segue into tomorrow, when we’ll have to ‘rush and then wait’ all day long.
