Another good night’s sleep and we were ready to step out for another day of exploring. Breakfast was perfect to get us going, so after cleaning up, we were off.
Today we decided to visit the Christmas market at La Défense. Located outside of the city, La Défense is the more modern area with high rise buildings and the Grande Arche. And that’s where the fun began.
We hopped on the metro and traveled to the Les Halles station. From there, we hopped aboard the RER A train and took it to La Défense. Disembarking, we headed up to the exit only to find out that we couldn’t exit. Our tickets were only valid for Zone 1.
Sixty-six year old gate jumpers would have made for a great headline, but we opted not to gate jump. Hell, I have enough problems walking up stairs. So after weighing our options, we got back on the train and returned to the previous station. From there we bought a ticket for the proper zone and then got back on the train.
With that little difficulty settled, we headed to the Marche de Nöel. This is a huge market. There are over two hundred stalls, plus rides for the kids and a separate area where they hold concerts.
WelcomeThe Quebec villageIf you want it, we have itHot cider, chocolate and wineAll in the shadow of the arch – if there was sun.
There were many stalls selling everything from nuts, breads, cheese, jewelry, toys, nougat, chocolate, manger figurines and so much more. Everyone seemed to be having a good time, especially those partaking in the Vin Chaud!
Aligot for all
We walked around for a while, were enticed by a few vendors to try their goodies – nougat, gingerbreads, spiced breads, cheese and nuts, and then grabbed a little bite to eat. We both had a dish of Aligot: Sue’s with duck breast and mine with sausage. Both were delicious treats.
Aligot – Mashed potatoes with lots of cheese. Sausage (left), duck (right)
The ride back was much easier with our proper tickets, though the trains and metro were crowded. It felt good to get back home to rest for a while.
Since we hadn’t stuffed ourselves at the market, we decided to book a reservation for dinner in the evening. Wanting to stay in the area, we chose Cafe Louise for our dining pleasure. It’s just two doors down and always has lots of local people there.
Our hunch was correct, as it turned out to be a perfect choice. It was nicely decorated and the seating was comfortable. Our waitress was extremely nice, encouraging our use of French and approving of our selections.
We started off with a glass of champagne just to be festive. For starters Sue had a delicious pork terrine and I had house made seafood spring rolls with shrimp and salmon. For our main plate, Sue had the braised beef cheeks while I continued with the seafood theme and had a lobster roll. Sue had a glass of red burgundy, while I went with a white chablis. Everything was awesome.
Clockwise: Terrine, Spring rolls, beef cheeks & lobster roll
They were really mine, but for dessert we shared an order of profiteroles made with chestnut ice cream and then finished off with a glass of port wine. Wow! It wasn’t expected to be this good, so it was quite a treat for a last minute reservation.
Profiterole
We took the three second stroll back to the hotel and relaxed for the remainder of the evening.
Woke up after a good night’s sleep feeling ready and raring to go. The breakfast room was getting a facelift, so the hotel was providing breakfast in your room. We had the basic continental breakfast with tea, bread and pastries – figuring we would get lunch later, while we were out and about.
Today we decided to visit the “Grand Magasins” or big department stores to see their holiday displays. Both the Galeries Lafayette and Printemps are decked out for the holidays with window displays and decorations throughout the stores.
It didn’t take long to get there as we just retraced our steps from last evening. Once at the Aubert station, it was just a five minute walk over to Boulevard Haussmann. We started at Galeries Lafayette.
Galeries Lafayette – 130 Years of Christmas
Galeries Lafayette is celebrating their 130th Christmas. Looking from the outside, I figured it would take my whole allowance just to buy a cookie. It seems like they had displays from every high end designer and luxury product company. But it doesn’t cost anything to look…right ?
First, the animated windows:
Interesting displays with a designer touch. Cute, but lacking that extra holiday feeling.
Inside is their famous Christmas tree hanging under the belle époque dome. This is where the pizazz factor comes in.
What a beautiful sight to see and you can’t miss it. The store is six floors plus the height of the dome and the tree was at least four floors tall. On the top of each hour, the tree lights change color and sparkle brightly. Very nice!
We spiraled our way up the escalators until we arrived at the top floor and then went out on the rooftop terrace. You get a great view of the city from there. I’m sure it would be even nicer on a warm sunny day; however we enjoyed it even with the clouds and grey skies.
Dior at the exit Door
Overall, it was a wonderful visit. They certainly make the place look festive. You’ll be so dazzled you probably won’t even feel your credit card burning through your wallet.
Next we went over to check out Printemps.
Printemps is known for their delightful window displays. This year’s theme is the Printemps Express. It’s a magical train ride to Christmas.
Get your ticketsAll aboardGrand mama and young girl on boardPillow fightDressing upDining carCelebratingThe express engine
Printemps caught our imagination with their delightful, whimsical animated windows. We loved their historical sensibility. Such a delight.
Historical advertising posters from Printemps
Beautiful and with such a charming theme. It was fun to see the kids looking at the windows in awe and having such a good time.
I know these two kids enjoyed them, remembering seeing the windows at the old AM&A’s department store windows in downtown Buffalo.
There were so many people out and about that we decided not to have lunch there. Instead, we returned to our neighborhood and took a walk to find our way to this evening’s dinner restaurant. It ended up being an easy walk and before heading back to the hotel, we stopped for lunch.
We found a cute little Italian restaurant called Gioia that turned out to be a real treat. We shared a caprese salad, pasta carbonara and a pizza along with a bottle of Montepulciano wine. Everything was delicious and very reasonably priced. Honestly, we would have paid more at home.
Afterwards, we took a slow stroll back to the hotel to relax for a while. Unfortunately, we passed by the Christmas market so we arrived back at the hotel with a hunk of Nougat. That’s nougat with pistachios, almonds and hazelnuts. Yum!
Contrary to what you think, I didn’t dive into the nougat. Actually, I took a nap.
For dinner, we ventured over to Chez Fernand – Christine. It is located in the heart of the 6th arrondisement and is highly regarded for their boeuf bourguignon. It’s tucked away on a small side street and there were people waiting outside to get in when we arrived. They have two seatings each evening at 7:00 and 9:00.
Like lemmings heading towards the sea, we too ordered the boeuf bourguignon. However, we also order a bottle of Nuits St. George to go along. We enjoyed dinner, but it wasn’t the best we’ve ever had.
That said, we had a wonderful time. The seating was very tight and we had a lovely single woman sitting next to us. We ended up chatting while eating to find out she was apartment shopping in Paris. She is a doctor from Los Angeles, originally from Iran, studied in France thirty years ago and loves coming back. We had so much fun talking with her.
The walk back to the hotel afterwards was pleasant and it felt good to just relax for a while before heading to bed. We’ve been listening to an Apple Music smooth jazz Christmas playlist each evening and enjoying it very much.
I have no qualms about saying that Paris is my favorite travel destination. I can’t express how grateful and lucky I feel to be back, especially with the holiday spirit in the air – people are cheerful and the ‘City of Lights’ is shining even brighter with colorful decorations – if only it was like this all the time. That said, we have arrived!
Our day started well. The driver arrived a few minutes early and we were ready to go. The ride up to Toronto was smooth and quick. Well actually, smooth and fast as our driver was zooming right along. Once we arrived at Pearson Airport, we only had a few minutes to wait before checking in our luggage.
Since we were flying business class, we’re able to enjoy the Air Canada Signature Lounge. Our server, Nav, was awesome and took great pride in making sure we enjoyed our meal. He even bumped us up on our wine selection with our meal.
We were chatting with a couple sitting next to us after dinner. They were heading to Amsterdam to start a Christmas Market River Cruise to celebrate his retirement. The time passed quickly and soon we were all ready to head to our gates to leave.
Our flight was delayed while they finished loading some freight, but aside from that we had an easy flight. We both slept for a while, which was a treat. It makes the first day so much easier to not be exhausted.
A bonus, thanks to the Olympics, was an updated passport control area. Using the machines makes things so much quicker. The baggage claim area is also new. Kudos to the French for the upgrades.
The first order of the day was getting from the Charles DeGaulle Airport to our hotel. We’re staying at the Hotel Au Manoir des St Germain in the 6th arrondissement. To get there using public transport would require changing from the train to the metro and then a short walk to the hotel. So towards the taxi line we went.
Between the baggage claim and the taxi line is the gauntlet of scammers trying to get you to ride with them. The way to navigate is to just say no and keep moving. They are not registered and they don’t abide by the fixed tariff rules.
The ride from the airport to a left bank destination is a fixed €65 rate; only €58 if you’re going to the right bank. After letting our driver know where we were heading, we were on our way.
We’ve stayed at Hotel Au Manoir des St Germain before and enjoyed it. It is in a great location, it’s cozy and the people there are all very friendly and helpful, so we thought it would be a good choice.
We arrived a bit early for check-in, however our room was ready. We were able to get settled in and cleaned up, which was an unexpected treat.
We decided to head next door to Brasserie Lipp for a nice lunch. It’s one of the landmark brasseries where all the old literary folks used to hang out. We shared some foie gras and then both ordered the Duck confit. We enjoyed a nice bottle of red wine from St. Joseph and ended our meal happy and sated.
We made the long walk of about ten feet back to our hotel and relaxed before changing for the evening’s event.
We had a 6:00 pm reservation for the Tootbus, so we headed over to the starting point. Their office is located near the Opera Garnier, which is a ways away from us. We decided to take the Metro to get there, since it was rush hour and the streets looked a little busy.
It was a bit drizzly, so it is nice having a Metro station close by. I had already recharged our Navigo cards, so it just took two taps and we were on our way. The first train was a bit crowded as it was just after 5:00 pm and people were heading home for the day. The second train was also crowded, but since we only had one stop, we just stood in the doorway.
Tootbus Holiday Tour
Tonight’s excursion was an open-air bus tour to see the holiday lights in the city. We made sure to wear warm layered clothes, hats and gloves to fight off the chill.
The route started off near the Opera Garnier, then headed to the Place Vendôme, La Madeleine, Place de Concorde, up the Champs Élysée around the Arc de Triomphe, back down the Champs Élysée, over to the Trocadéro, across to the Eiffel Tower, over to Avenue Montaigne, by the Louvre and then back to Blvd Haussmann and ending in front of Au Printemps. Don’t believe me? I have pictures to prove it.
Opera Garnier – the advertising is covering the work being done to the facade.Decorations along the streetsPlace VendômePlace VendômePlace VendômePlace Vendôme – ChanelLa Madeleine Champs Élysée Champs Élysée – Louis Vuitton StoreArc De TriompheEiffel Tower
The bus arrived at the Eiffel Tower at the top of the hour and we got to watch the light display. It was quite the treat.
Eiffel Tower – lights at the top of the hourMarché de Nöel by the Eiffel TowerThe Dior Store on Avenue MontaigneCourtyard at the LouvreAu Printemps Preview
It may have been a little chilly, but it was a lot of fun. The decorations were beautiful, we got ideas for where places were that we want to visit and learned a new short cut via the Metro and RER trains to move about the city. Also learned about ticket inspectors as they were at the exit when we returned to Saint Germain station. No worries though.
Took the short walk back to the hotel and it sure felt good to stretch out and climb into a warm, comfy bed. 3..2..1.. And it was off to dreamland – we were tired.
Back when I turned fifty years old, we spent my birthday in Paris. Since I am a Christmas Eve baby, that meant we celebrated Christmas in Paris. It was exciting and it was special. So while I’m still sixty-five, we decided to celebrate the holiday season in Paris once again.
This time we’ll be there before the holiday, so we’ll be able to enjoy the Christmas Markets and decorations throughout the city. Paris is called the “City of Lights” and during the holiday season it shines even brighter with mesmerizing holiday displays.
From the strings of lights along the Champs Élysées to the holiday window displays at the Galeries Lafayette or Printemps to the glowing Christmas trees strategically placed in the little squares around the city, it promises to be festive. I saw an article talking about the many ice skating rinks being constructed in the market areas and just smiled. There was a time when I would have jumped at the experience, but those days have sadly passed. Now we’ll just enjoy watching the young folks while we sip our mulled wine.
The weather will be chilly, but that’s what happens as December arrives and the holidays approach. There is likely to be a bit of rain that will fall, though honestly, I’ll be hoping for at least a couple of snow flurries. We’ll plan to dress in layers and bundle up and find the hot chocolate or hot mulled wine kiosks or a cozy Café to duck into.
Hot wine and roasted chestnuts
We’ll be staying in the 6th arrondissement at the Au Manoir Saint Germain des Prés Hotel. It’s a nice hotel in an excellent location. There is a metro station, a bus stop and a taxi stand nearby. A few restaurants and cafes – Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore are literally across the street.
Since our goal is to enjoy the Christmas markets, we’ll also be centrally located to get to them. The closest one will be just across the street around the Saint Germain des Pres Church. So yes, snacks in the evening will always be close by. Just think…warm chestnuts!
We will be keeping this trip simple. We have made reservations for a couple of outings but we’ll mostly just wander and have fun. To acquaint ourselves with the areas and maybe instill a little holiday spirit, we booked a ride on the Tootbus for a nighttime holiday light tour. It’s basically a 90 minute ride to see the various places that are brightly decorated. We also booked tickets to a Vivaldi concert being held at La Madeleine. We are just a bit early for the Christmas concerts, but I can sing those songs myself – quietly!
La Madeleine
We have also made reservations at restaurants for a few lunches and dinners, but we’re looking forward to indulging in some of the food at the markets. We’ve heard that the dining fare at some is different and delicious, so I can’t wait to check it out. I’m not expecting corn dogs or greasy fries, but I do know about Pain d’épices or french holiday spice bread and Bouche Nöel. Yum!
Anyway, we’re all set with Air Canada and our airport transfers at home and in Paris, so all that’s left is to wait for a few weeks.
We always reflect back on our trips when we get home, as well as answer the inevitable question: “What did you like best?”. We had many things that we talked about this time, which would indicate that we had a very enjoyable trip. I thought I’d share some of our thoughts with you as we reminisced.
The easiest thought to convey is that we loved Portugal. We visited six cities with distinctly different vibes to them, but there was one continuous thread. That underlying thread is that we were enamored with how nice the people were. Every person we dealt with was a true ambassador for the country. Friendly, helpful, upbeat, polite and encouraging are some words that immediately come to mind.
We do not speak Portuguese. Before traveling, we used Duolingo to learn a little bit to be polite and respectful. We always try to do that as it enhances our enjoyment. We received nothing but smiles and encouragement when we used that little bit of Portuguese. People would help us with our pronunciation without talking down to us at all. It was very uplifting from a traveler’s perspective.
The distinct vibes from the cities came from the locations, the history, the pride and the culture of each. We traveled through what I would call the middle of the country. To the north, we went as far as Porto and to the south, we stopped at Lisbon. There was so much more to see, but we had to have boundaries. As Sue and I always say: “Next time!”.
We started in Porto. I’d say it was a very social city. The main tourist area is compact and easily walkable. Well, walkable if you are ready for the hills. We knew there would be hills, but we didn’t realize that they would be everywhere. Even going down the hills could be a chore as some were a bit steep. The waterfront on both sides of the river was where the action was to be found. Boat rides, bars and restaurants lined the Porto side, while the Villa Nova side had the Port Lodges.
Moving on: no surprises here, Coimbra had a college town vibe. With the University being the central location, there was a laid back approach to things there. Lots of places and activities focused on the students. There was also much nightlife catering to a younger demographic and Fado for the tourists.
Tomar was a favorite for both of us. This stop on our journey just had a special feeling to it. It’s a smaller town, but such a historically important town. For us, our tour with Nikita of the Templar Castle and the Convent of Christ was the high point of the trip. It’s hard to explain, but it left us feeling spiritually fulfilled. We each left wanting to be a better person.
Mother Nature took center stage in Nazaré. Looking over the ocean and feeling the power of the water is mesmerizing to me. Then, watching the sun set brought such a sense of calm. We discussed the wonderment that the ancient people must have had wondering where the sun went each day. Sailing as far as they could go, but never finding where the sun hid when it disappeared from the sky.
In Sintra, we were dazzled by the opulence on display along with the show of power. The huge, imposing castles looming on the mountain tops ready to protect the lands against invaders. Then, nestled nearby, were the palaces of the wealthy dotting the landscape. It was a very interesting contrast.
And lastly came Lisbon. It had the big city vibe, but not always. We stayed in the oldest part of the city known as the Alfama district and spent most of our time there too. While we occasionally strayed across the city and got a feel for the more modern sections, we centered our attention on the historical district, which provided the small city feeling that we enjoy.
As you could probably tell from the blog, we really enjoyed our meals throughout the trip. Every location had excellent food choices of all kinds. We mainly stayed with traditional or modern Portuguese, but we did sneak in Italian, Indian and even a little American. Our restaurant choices ranged from sandwich shops to two-star Michelin restaurants and we were wowed many times over.
And the final thought is the question – would you go back? The answer is a resounding – Yes!
We saw and experienced quite a bit, but honestly, we only scratched the surface. There is so much more to see, do and experience.
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In addition to all the ‘research’, there were some others that really made the trip what it was. Here is a list of some of them. Also, I have gone back through the blog and updated the links to the various hotels, restaurants and other folks that we used.
Could you get around by car if you wanted to drive?
You could. It seemed to be easily drivable. The highway system looked good and the roads are well maintained. It would be fine for getting between locations. However, Lisbon and Porto have old, narrow roads and parking is difficult. I’d probably avoid having a car in those cities. Our driver also mentioned that the tolls are quite expensive on the highways.
Are the restaurants expensive?
The meals were very reasonably priced. There were plenty of places that were offering fixed price menus for lunch and dinner. Like anyplace else, you can control your spending through your choices of restaurants. There are lots of cafes and tavernas, along with fancier restaurants. I’d say that seafood is definitely priced well, as it is abundant. Another tip would be to go with the house wines. They were definitely cheaper than the wine list selections.
Did you have problems getting around in the cities?
No! All of the cities we went to were walkable. When we didn’t want to walk or it was raining, there were taxis, Uber and Bolt or tuk-tuks. We only took a cab one time and that was in Lisbon on our way to a nicer dinner.
With just one day left, what better way to celebrate our journey through Portugal than with a nice dinner at a wonderful restaurant?
To avoid the inevitable wind-blown and exhausted look, we took a taxi to the restaurant. The taxi driver’s face showed surprise at the relatively close destination (about a 30 minute walk), but the hills and cobblestone sidewalks are much more navigable in the back seat of a cab.
Our restaurant for the evening was Alma. It is a 2-Star Michelin restaurant led by chef Henrique Sa Pessoa. Alma means ‘Soul’ in Portuguese. On this evening, the chef and staff poured their souls into making our dining experience amazing.
We chose the tasting menu consisting of the Chef’s signature dishes. It was called the ‘Alma’ menu and it was outstanding.
The menu looked deceptively manageable as tasting menu portions tend to be on the smaller side…that is, until the service started.
We also selected to have the sommelier pair each course with an appropriate wine. To warm up our taste buds, we started with a glass of champagne to toast to a successful trip.
The pre-menu bites. They call them ‘moments’. We just ate them and called them ‘delicious’.
And then, with the bread service, our tasting menu began.
And we finished with a few extra treats. What an awesome meal and overall dining experience it was. Each course was a masterpiece. The preparation, presentation and nuanced flavors made the meal such a joy. Add in the friendly and efficient service and you have yourself a very memorable meal.
When we were ready, the restaurant called a taxi for us and within fifteen minutes we were back in the hotel room and talking about what a great meal we had just had. It was definitely one of the best meals ever.
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Wednesday ended up being a day for getting things done and relaxing. No tours, no big meals – just taking care of loose ends before we leave. The weather was mostly sunny, but windy and cooler. There was a high wind warning for the coastline and we were getting a bit of those winds.
We did go downstairs for a quick breakfast, but neither one of us were too hungry after last night’s dinner. There was room for a cappuccino and a Pain au chocolate – it’s like Jell-0, there’s always room. We had a chance to say ‘goodbye and thank you’ to the staff.
While the maid was working on our room, we found a comfortable place to sit and caught up on a few reviews, emails and confirmations. When we got back to our room, we used our private wi-fi to check-in with Air Canada for our flight and for our transport from Toronto to home.
With the “paperwork” completed, we went outside for a drink and to watch the cruise ships. Two new ships had arrived – one in the morning and one in the afternoon. Both were large ships, but the Celebrity ship was huge compared to the other. I still don’t know how they float.
Later, we each had a hamburger on the terrace and then went inside, as it was getting cooler as the sun was setting. We turned on some music, repacked our suitcases and got a good night’s sleep.
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Thursday was our travel day. We had to get up early as we had an 8:30am taxi scheduled to take us to the airport. We bid a fond farewell to the desk staff as we checked out. They were all so friendly and helpful during our stay.
When the taxi arrived, we were able to zip through the empty morning streets to the airport. Only when we got close to the airport did we actually encounter traffic. As it turned out, we arrived with plenty time to spare.
The terminal layout was a little funky and confusing. We were able to use the kiosk to print out our boarding passes, but we couldn’t find an Air Canada baggage drop. We finally had to ask someone and they pointed the way. It was tucked into a corner after having to walk down a hallway. We did find it, dumped off our bags and then headed to a Priority Security line that had nobody in it. We passed through security, weaved our way through the Duty Free Shop and then finally arrived at the center of the terminal.
We were able to use the TAP Airline lounge, so we wandered up to wait for our flight to board. The lounge wasn’t anything special, but it was a comfortable place to sit away from the crowded terminal and they had clean, separate rest rooms, which we appreciated.
When boarding time approached, we headed to our gate. It was at the entrance to the gate area that we finally passed through Passport Control. I thought we had made a wrong turn somewhere and were somehow going to miss it, but they came through. Some of the machines were not working properly, but they did have someone available to help get us through. One stamp later and it was off to the gate.
We were happy to see our plane and to know that we had our Business class seats for the ride home. I filed a claim for losing them on the way over, but still haven’t heard anything from the airline. Boarding went smoothly and before long, we were on our way home.
The flight was mostly turbulence free – just a couple of bumps. It was a seven hour flight back to Toronto, but the time went by quickly. Passport control, baggage and Customs went smooth. We made a quick call to our driver and he arrived in a flash. It was the same gentleman who originally took us up to the airport, so we chatted most of the way and the time went by quickly.
The traffic wasn’t too bad as we took the 407 Toll route instead of the 401 around Toronto. Between that and being able to use the multi-passenger lane, we made excellent time. We crossed the border at Niagara Falls and got a chuckle from the Border Agent, as Sue had a detailed list of all our purchases and the costs. More than he must normally see for $28 worth of goods.
The remainder of the ride was uneventful. We were dropped off right in our driveway and in the house before we could even realize that it was quite chilly outside.
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And that my friends was our Portuguese Adventure!
We had a great time, saw some beautiful sights and met some wonderful people – making the trip an overwhelming success. Thanks for following along.
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I’ll have one more post with a summary, some details that I was asked about and a couple of updates. If you go to the blog site instead of reading it via the emails, I’ll also be adding the web links for some of the places and services that we used.
Monday morning arrived and the weather forecast was partially correct. We had some heavy rain overnight. However, now they are saying the day will be mostly sunny with just a short shower predicted.
Having cancelled our tuk tuk tour, we were disappointed that the weather would now be clear. We decided to just find a friendly looking driver and do our own tour. We walked down to the front of the cathedral to pick a ride.
We saw a decent looking tuk tuk and the driver looked friendly enough. He saw us looking and walked over to give us his sales pitch. Just a little hesitation and the price dropped a wee bit, so we booked him.
It would be a two hour tour that would include the three main viewpoints and everything in between. Plus, we could stop for pictures along the way. It was just what we wanted.
Before heading out, André gave us a little history lesson on the areas we’d be visiting and Portugal in general. With a thrilling rush, we were off!
Ok, it was a mediocre ‘putt putt’, but you get the idea!
Our first stop was the ancient Roman amphitheater ruins. Just as we were approaching the site, the skies opened and it started to rain. Not mist, not drizzle, but pouring rain. The weather gods were against us.
We scooted into to the ruins as did everyone else who was close and getting drenched. When we finished, we ran back to the tuk tuk and put down the plastic rain cover.
That “this is going to be miserable” feeling started coming over us, but on we went.
We passed by the two Miradouros that we had already been to and headed up the hill.
The rain let up when we reached the Miradouro do Senhora do Monte.
Despite being a bit damp, we enjoyed the spectacular view over the city.
Sue put on her rain poncho, which would have a significant bearing on the weather. Summed up: the rain stopped and the sun started peeking through the clouds.
We drove on through the old city, weaving our way through the bumpy, cobblestone streets. Seeing the residential neighborhoods was very interesting, especially the small shops, restaurants and squares. Everyone we came across knew André; I guess that’s the benefit of having a local as your guide.
The second viewpoint was Miradouro da Graça. It was close to the city Pantheon and provided picturesque views down and across the river.
By the time we were ready to move on, we decided to raise the plastic covering on the tuk tuk. While we could see, we couldn’t take pictures and wanted that option back.
Next we passed by St. George’s Castle as we headed across to our third viewpoint. There was a lone peacock from the flock which reside at the castle. He had wandered over to a nearby house. We surmised that the person must feed him, so he returns to visit. He looked ready to ring the doorbell for a treat.
On our way to our next location, we made a short stop at the Church of Saint Roch. André said that many people have called it one of the prettiest Catholic Churches in Lisbon.
Our final viewpoint was the Miradouro de Santa Catarina. It’s a beautiful little park and was across from the first two and gave us a perspective from the other direction.
Up and through the more posh part of town, we went to the Parque Eduardo VII. It was a beautiful park that had been dedicated to King Edward VII when he visited Lisbon.
We then made our way to the Avenida da Liberdade, the grand avenue in the newer part of town. The area along the avenue is where all the fancy hotels and designer shops are located.
We had the option to extend our tour and go to the riverfront areas, but frankly, my back just couldn’t handle it. Some of the bumps along the way had been spinebusters and I needed to stretch out. So we headed back to the Alfama.
We really enjoyed the tour, even with the short spurt of rain. Our driver turned out to be the right person for us. He was informative, funny, personable and a good driver!
It was a short walk back to the hotel and I couldn’t wait to just lie down and stretch my back a little bit.
For dinner, we went back to Audrey’s, which was our Thursday night destination. I was hoping that they might still be serving their daytime menu as the piri piri chicken sounded good, but it was not to be. Not that there is anything wrong with their dinner menu…
We tried to keep it a little lighter. Sue had the prawn appetizer and then the cod. I went with the prawn appetizer and then had the scallop appetizer as my main course. We paired it with a white wine from the Dao region. Since I kept it light, there was room for the chocolate mousse dessert.
The best part was the short walk back to the hotel afterwards.
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Tuesday, we snuck in what would have been the second half of our cancelled tour. We walked back to the tuk tuk station in front of the cathedral and spotted the guy who had chatted with us on Friday.
We approached him and said we were hoping to find him as we were interested in a tour. He seemed genuinely surprised that we would seek him out. His name was Bruno, the price was reasonable and we were off.
He was asking us about things we’ve seen in Lisbon and made a couple of ‘turns’ so we could see a few things that we missed.
We started with a short stop at the Praça do Comércio. It’s one of the most famous squares in Lisbon and faces the harbor. Behind it is the Arco da Rua Augusta, affectionately known as the gate to the city.
Before the earthquake of 1755, the palace stood in this location. In the center of the square is a statue of King José I and Gentil, the horse he is astride.
After some pictures, we were off once again. Bruno made sure that we passed by the “pink street” with its myriad of hanging umbrellas. It’s home to many restaurants and bars.
We swung down to the main street that cuts across the riverfront. Hooray, an end to cobblestones bumps!
As we were cruising along, there was a sudden downpour. Luckily, it only lasted a few minutes, but it was just supposed to be cloudy – just ask the weatherman.
We enjoyed chatting with Bruno; he kept referring to us as his ‘Favorite Buffalonians’. He told us he actually lived in Toronto for a short while and has a friend in Seattle he wants to visit.
We passed by several spots that he pointed out and stopped at a few others. We drove by the Timeout Market and stopped to catch a glimpse of the LX Factory.
LX Factory – repurposed former industrial site with shops and artisans
Our next stop was at the Presidential Palace or the ‘Pink House’ and then on to Jerónimos Monastery.
A loop around and over the train tracks took us closer to the waterfront. It was noticeably windier, but the fresh sea air smelled so good.
Our first stop was at the Torre de Belém. Now a tourist attraction, it was formerly a medieval defensive fortress and a perfectly located tax collection point.
We were still at low tide, so you could walk on the riverbed; however, when the tide is high it becomes surrounded by water.
Located near the entrance to the park where the tower is located is a statue commemorating the first airplane flight to South America.
I wonder if they served snacks?
Next we made our way over to the monument to the discoverers. It is dedicated to those people who represent important figures in Portuguese history. Leading the way was Henry the Navigator.
Bruno wanted to make one last stop before we started back towards the Alfama. It was along the river and he said it would be great for a picture – we agreed.
A bit wind-blown, but happy pals.
We wound our way back towards home and Bruno insisted on dropping us off at the hotel.
In the grand scheme of things, maybe having to cancel our original tour wasn’t such a bad thing. We met and enjoyed two new friends and maybe that’s just the way the world works.
We needed to relax for a while and thought a small bite to eat might be a good idea. We went out on the terrace for a beverage and a couple snacks. New boats were at the dock – one that must have just arrived, as there was a stream of people exiting at the terminal.
We enjoyed our little nosh and then headed to the room to rest up for a while. Tonight we have our final celebratory meal to cap off the trip.
Unbelievably, it’s our last weekend in Portugal. After a stretch of good weather, the rain has caught up with us. The overcast skies are one thing, but the rain makes the streets and sidewalks slick.
We were able to sleep in a little bit, as our first activity of the day is lunch. We are going to Restaurant Prado – a Michelin starred restaurant not too far from us.
Restaurant Prado is billed as a farm-to-table eatery with an ever changing menu based on the freshest ingredients available.
The menu
Our hostess, pictured above, was super friendly and when Sue said “Hello and nice to meet you” with a perfect accent, she assumed she was fluent in Portuguese and started talking. Busted! We had to backtrack and go back to partial Portuguese / partial English.
She explained that the menu items are meant to be shared and were designed to be brought out in sequence. So here were our choices:
What a delightful lunch. Everything was a blend of flavors and textures and everything paired perfectly with our wine. Definitely worthy of a Michelin star. They were also so friendly and hospitable; not even a hint of star snobbery.
Before we left the hotel, we had received a message regarding our evening boat ride. Due to inclement weather, we could cancel or reschedule. Since our itinerary was set, we ended up cancelling. We are going to try again on another date – time and weather permitting.
Since we planned the special lunch instead of dinner to accommodate our now cancelled boat trip, we walked around for a little while to look around and digest!
During the afternoon, we relaxed for a while to map out our strategy for the next couple of days. We also took some time to upload the photos to my iPad and to look through them. We put on some music and I did a little blog updating to catch up.
Not being overly hungry after our big lunch, we looked for someplace simple that was nearby.
There was a small place a short walk from the hotel called Pizzaiola that sounded good for a light dinner. We shared a small pizza, a tiramisu and a bottle of wine. Our waiter was really pleasant and before we left, he brought each of us a glass of limoncello.
We made the short walk back to the hotel and settled in for the evening. A little music to relax before dozing off.
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Sunday morning was interesting. We looked out of the balcony doors and the cruise ship from yesterday was gone. However, there were two new ships docked in its place. Abracadabra!
While we were getting ready to go down to breakfast, we received a text from Viator. The weather forecast for tomorrow is for heavy rain, so we could cancel and get a full refund or go and be miserable. So, we’ll be getting a refund. How disappointing!
Oh, and today is gray and cloudy, with a light misty rain. I needed breakfast and to think a bit.
With the weather being sub-optimal, we did the unthinkable: we turned on the television. What started as a check on the weather turned into watching part of the football game in German. A new travel low point.
Dinner was at a restaurant called Grenache. It has a slight French lean to the menu and is another Michelin starred restaurant.
What a fabulous meal and great evening! The staff there made the evening incredible. From the moment we arrived until we said goodbye and walked out, they treated us like we were special guests.
So the weekend became a foodie weekend thanks to the weather. Unfortunately, the weather doesn’t look too good for the next few days. It looks like we will have to dodge some raindrops if we want to go sightseeing.
The last leg of our adventure has arrived. Our driver arrived a few minutes early, but we were ready and waiting. Off we went to Lisbon.
The drive took about forty-five minutes due to the traffic in the city. Lisbon has that big city look as you approach it. There are many taller apartment buildings, busier roads and more graffiti. We had to cross the city to get to the area we are staying in. We went from big wide avenues to smaller, narrow streets. From nicely paved roads to bumpy cobblestones streets. Quite different, indeed!
We are staying in the area of the city known as the Alfama. It is the oldest part of the city, having survived the devastating earthquake of 1755. The earthquake not only destroyed much of the original city, but the aftershocks and subsequent tsunami were felt as far away as Great Britain.
Our hotel is called the Memmo Alfama and is located in the historic center of the Alfama, near to the Lisbon Cathedral. We have a terrace room and although the room is not large, we have an outside sitting area that overlooks the terrace bar and has an awesome river view.
The hotel is quite nice and has such a relaxing vibe – especially the outside area.
Upon our arrival and after unpacking, we took advantage of the outdoor area. That was where we met our server and new friend, Monica. We had a bit of lunch and a bottle of wine while looking out over the river.
The ship that the folks we met in Sintra (Al and Terry) were taking was docked at the port. We were waiting to see them depart, but they didn’t leave until after we left the outdoor terrace.
We did get to see the Virgin Cruise ship ‘Resilient Lady’ arrive and ease into port. Fun to watch, since I have no plan to board a cruise ship anytime soon.
For our first evening, we went to Audrey’s Restaurant for dinner. It was a short uphill walk from our hotel, but the walk was well worth the reward.
When we arrived and were seated, there were live musicians performing and they were very good.
Our meals were once again delicious. You’re probably tired of hearing that phrase, but we really have not had a meal that was subpar anywhere so far.
As always, we ordered a bottle of wine. Sue had the grilled scallops and I had the grilled prawns with a mango sauce to start, then we both had the grilled cod for our main.
Having enjoyed our dinner, we walked back to the hotel. When we arrived, there was a bossa nova music performer on the terrace outside of our room. We stepped outside on our patio and enjoyed a second round of wonderful live music for the evening.
When he finished, we stepped inside and enjoyed a good night’s sleep.
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After preparing for the day, we went down and enjoyed a good breakfast. There were lots of choices available and additionally, they would prepare eggs, pancakes or crepes if you wished.
Now fueled for the day, we headed out to walk around.
The iconic Tram 28
Our area is hilly, so we started by heading down towards the cruise ships. Once we arrived on the lower level, it was relatively flat.
From closer up, the ships look even bigger. We walked around for a while and then started heading up. The one thing that we noticed was that many of the “souvenir” stores were all selling the same things and most of it was knock-offs made in China. There wasn’t much that you could say was made in Portugal.
However, we did notice individual upscale shops selling quality linens, towels and household tiles/fabrics that Portugal is world famous for.
We ended up near the cathedral and found a bench to do some people watching. We were sitting near where the tuk tuks park to pick up riders. We were talking to a really nice driver who had actually lived in Toronto for a couple years.
While sitting there, we were noticing the various people walking around. We laughingly called it “Foot Fetish Friday”. The vast majority of people were sensibly wearing sneakers or similar footwear. However, there were quite a few wearing flip flops, flat leather sandals, scuffs and even a couple pairs of heels – a podiatrist’s delight!
After sitting for a while, we continued our upward trek. There are two viewpoints or miradouros that we stopped at that give you a beautiful view of the surrounding area. The first was the Miradouro das Portas do Sol.
The second and most popular one – Miradouro de Santa Luzia -provided beautiful views all around and down to the river. The red tiled roofs were in stark contrast to the cloudy grey skies.
I guess the clouds thought enough people were out to be impacted by the slippery cobblestones, so it began to drizzle rain. We started to head back to the hotel and decided to just relax before dinner.
We were able to find a weather protected table on the terrace, so we enjoyed a little happy hour before getting ready to go to dinner.
Dinner was at a restaurant that was fairly close to the hotel. It was called Casa Tradição and we loved it.
We went with tasting menu and wine pairings and couldn’t have been happier. It was nine courses in total with six small pours of wine.
What an unexpected surprise dinner turned out to be! The wine pairings were all spot on too.
There was a quirky older couple from the UK seated next to us who we chatted a bit with. They were very nice and well traveled, with some travel adventures that they shared. Comparatively, I felt like our adventures were very mundane. I wanted to say that once, we were served warm rosé. 😉
It was just a short walk home and we just relaxed for a while before heading to dreamland. Tomorrow starts our last weekend in Portugal.
For our last full day in Sintra, we’re back to touring. Today we visited the Pena Palace on a guided tour. We used the company “Get Your Guide” once again and we were happy with our choice.
Unfortunately, we have a rainy day ahead of us. It appears that ‘cloudy day’ is a code used by the weather people to indicate rain. No sense scaring away the tourists.
To start, we met our guide Jorge by the train station. It turned out to be just Sue and I on the tour. Jorge was great. We started by talking about the day ahead and looking at some maps while he talked about the history of the palace. When he finished, we were off.
The road to the top of the mountain is narrow and twisty. It’s mostly one way, but there were a few stretches where we had to share. The parking areas are madness.
Just squeeze them in folks! (Objects in photo are MUCH closer than they appear.)
Once we were able to park, we bought our tickets online and then headed for the entrance. Ironically, we met up with our guide Jorge from our Quinta tour. We missed him on our way out two days ago, so we were able to give him the gratuity we had for him.
We bought tickets for the outside part of the Peña Palace, which included the gardens and outer structures. While it may have been nice to view, the interior didn’t have the original furnishings and would be crowded on this rainy day.
Jorge has an interesting background with one of his passions being landscape design. As we walked along the paths through the gardens, he shared some interesting insights about the surrounding flora, trees and microclimate.
The cloudy, grey skies made the gardens and trees feel very somber. The fog and rain we could have skipped, but it went along with the location.
All along the path, we passed by stands of trees including Sequoia, Camelia, Cypress, Magnolia and Chestnut. We saw some Bay trees and Jorge plucked two bay leaves for souvenirs. He explained that the trees, plants and herbs growing throughout were specifically chosen for the gardens and come from many different places around the world, including the U.S., Australia, Asia and South America.
When we arrived at the palace, it was interesting to see the blending of styles and to learn of the symbology. There are two main gates used to enter the complex, and then a main entrance into the courtyard.
Outer gate – key, trilogy and the gloveInner gate – Gold, Diamonds and HelmetDepiction of a mythological Triton and the creation of the worldManueline FacadeClock tower and Chapel
The Chapel which dates back to the original monastery:
Inside the chapelRed areas were private family spaces.
The gardens and lakes provided a lovely backdrop for our stroll to exit the palace. Jorge went to get the vehicle and we would meet him near the gate.
Our visit to this jewel on the mountain was enjoyable. The rain and fog took away some of the splendid color elements, but not its natural beauty. King Ferdinand II combined culture, power and nature and left a legacy that is a treasure.
We drove back to town and Jorge was nice enough to drop us off near the hotel so we wouldn’t have to walk back from the train station.
Sue and I immediately (after the requisite restroom stops and clothing changes) plopped down to rest our legs for a while. We love the scenery, but the hills are murder on these old legs.
We would just relax and stay dry until dinner time. When dinner time arrived, it was still raining.
After our enjoyable happy hour excursion the day before, we decided to go back to DizTinto for dinner. Luckily, we had made a reservation as they had a full house. We had a wonderful bottle of wine to help warm our cockles, along with some Shrimp in a garlic sauce. Then, Sue went with the braised pork cheeks with smashed citrus sweet potatoes while I had the John Dory fish with jasmine rice.
Everything was delicious and the servers were a delight. By the time we left, the whole gang came over to say goodbye.
Long day, fresh ‘wet’ air and lots of walking – time for bed.
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Woke up this morning raring to go. We took our showers, got dressed and then waited. Waited to check out just before noon and then waited for our Daytrip driver to arrive.
It’s just a half hour ride to Lisbon and we’ll be there soon.
Slightly Whirled - A Traveler's Tales 