We woke up to a little more rain. It will likely rain on and off all day, so we’ll definitely be taking our jackets and umbrella with us.
We ate breakfast, cleaned up and got ready to go. Today we are going to see a huge naked guy named Dave. Per Sue, we are going to the Accademia to see the Statue of David. Always with the details…
It’s a bit of a walk to the Galleria Della Accademia, but though it’s been years, we remembered the route. Once you get close to the Duomo area, you can just follow the crowds.
Our tickets are for a 1:30 entry time, so we have a little over forty-five minutes to wait. We exchanged our voucher for our tickets, which included entry for the Uffizi tomorrow. About fifteen minutes before our time, they line everyone up. That simple little step keeps the pushing and jostling down to a minimum.
They have changed things a little bit inside. They have added some additional artworks in a section that leads to the main gallery.
As soon as you turn the corner, you can see David at the far end. Along the way, Michelangelo Buonarroti’s other works: ‘The Prisoners’ guide you.
At the end of the hall, in its place of honor stands ‘David’.
We’ve been lucky and privileged to have seen some wonderful art pieces throughout the years. David is one of my favorites.
Next on our agenda was leaving the gallery and getting wet. It was once again lightly raining off and on, so we made our way back towards the apartment.
Italy and France have something that you don’t find in other countries – Accordionists. And there is nothing that I enjoy more than coming across a good one. And once again today, I found one.
🎶 O Sole Mio 🎶
On the street leading home, we checked out a couple of restaurant menus. We were a bit hungry and some places smelled so good!
With a little coaxing from a waitress out front, we popped into the Tavernetta Della Signoria. We thought it would be for a little nosh, but it ended up being an early dinner. Everything was delicious, the portions were plentiful and the cost was very reasonable. Oh yes, and their pastas were all homemade.
Tavernetta Della Signoria
With full tummies, we made our way back to the apartment. We made one quick stop at the shop across the street to get some water, yogurt, milk and snacks. The gentleman at the shop remembered us and was so nice. He had a fresh tray of homemade biscotti and seemed delighted that I was eyeing them and actually bought four. What a great breakfast they would make – if only I had some Vin Santo.
Once back in the apartment, we changed and got comfortable for the evening. Lots of pictures needed reviewing and cataloging and this would be a perfect evening to catch up.
Moving away from the coastline, our next location is the Renaissance city of Florence – Firenze to the Italians. We have five days to enjoy ourselves and explore the city.
We rented an apartment in Florence that is located just two blocks away from the Palazzo Vecchio and the Uffizi Gallery. In the other direction is the Church of Santa Croce. The apartment is really comfortable and clean, and the location is hard to beat. We’re in a somewhat residential area with many places to eat and drink nearby. Silvia, the apartment manager, pointed out the nearby Gelateria as having some of the best gelato around – we’ll be checking it out!
It was located in an ancient building that was restored. There were pictures throughout the building showing what it looked like before and during construction. They did a terrific job of saving the building.
Kairos Art Apartment in Florence
Right across the street from the apartment is a small shop, that just happens to make some delicious food items. Since it was raining, we scooted over to pick up a few items – including lunch.
Our in-house picnic lunch
So our picnic lunch was pasta with prosciutto, peas and mushrooms with a side of artichokes. We opened our last bottle of wine that we brought from Alba and with a little music – we partied!
For the remainder of the afternoon, we organized our paperwork, reviewed our plans. It looks like we’ll be dodging raindrops, so best to know our directions.
We planned ahead of time knowing that Florence would be our art city. We bought our tickets while home to be able to avoid the lines and to make sure we would get in to the galleries. Our big three were the Uffizi Gallery, The Accademia and the Palazzo Vecchio. In addition, we had entry to the Duomo. That would be more than enough to squeeze in without being overwhelmed.
The rain let up before dinner time, but we looked like Fred and Ginger dancing around puddles on the way to the restaurant. For our first dinner, we chose Trattoria Antico Fattore. It was just five minutes away, right around the corner from the Uffizi Gallery.
Pappardelle w CinghaleRavioli bolognesi Ossobuco Cinghale w/ polenta
Very good and very filling. My one little gripe was that it was warm in the restaurant, but no complaints about the meal at all.
The good news is that it stopped raining and we were able to walk back at a more leisurely pace. Unfortunately, Sue realized she had forgotten her sweater, so we had to make a faster paced return trip to retrieve it. Then we got to walk back leisurely again.
All in all it was a good day. The rain is annoying, but “they need it”. We’re looking forward to our visits starting tomorrow.
Time to move on from the Cinque Terre. After our previous experiences with them, we decided to alter our plans a little bit and go with the Daytrip folks once again. This time it was just a non-stop drive from Monterosso Al Mare to Florence.
Our pickup point would be at the roundabout since our hotel is in a no-drive zone. Quite frankly, it was sure easier when we arrived. This time we had to navigate our way uphill. When we neared the roundabout, we could see our driver coming towards us. After confirming he was our driver, he took Sue’s bag and led the way. By the time we reached the car, all three of us were breathing a little heavier.
Our driver for this trip was Elvis, like the singer. 😎
Unlike the last two trips, this time we would be going directly from Cinque Terre to Florence. The two popular stops many others choose are Pisa and Lucca, but we’ve been to both before.
Elvis was fun to ride with, as he was very personable. We talked about sports, work, Covid and he and Sue even discussed the secret to making good pasta carbonara.
The ride took about two and a half hours and was very comfortable. In comparison, the train would have taken almost four hours with one change in Pisa.
We hit patches of rain along the way, including a pretty good downpour as we approached Florence.
When we arrived to the outskirts of Florence, I remembered why I said I would never drive here. Thank goodness we had a professional driver. There were so many narrow streets and tight turns, not to mention throngs of people near the more touristy areas – yikes!
When we arrived at the apartment, Elvis helped us with our bags before having to pick someone up nearby for a ride back to Genoa. No time for a picture, but another safe and comfortable ride.
Hard to believe this was our final day in the Cinque Terre. Tomorrow we move on to Florence, but today we’ll enjoy Monterosso Al Mare.
The surf was rocking again this morning. The waves rolling in and crashing against the rocks were drawing out many people with cameras. Our balcony vantage point was nice, but I too wanted to get closer.
Wave watchers
We had breakfast and then set out for a day of exploring. We walked over to the rocky area to see some up-close nature and we weren’t disappointed.
The frothy sea
There was a small restaurant nearby that looked good, so we made a dinner reservation before heading into town. Seafood by the sea seemed appropriate for our last evening.
We could hear children, so we headed in that direction. There was a school bus picking kids up from school, along with parents finding their bambino.
The town hall was in the same area, as well as a few residential streets. Dora the Explorer would have been proud of us today.
Town hallGiuseppe GaribaldiCandles for our loved ones and friendsCasually enjoying the dayReleasing the KrakenThe castle on the hill
We even decided to go up the hill before going back home. When we reached the summit (not exactly Mt. Everest), we thought we might enjoy the views better with a glass of wine.
It just so happened that the Torre Aurora was a mere ten feet from where we were standing, so up we went. We were seated in a perfect location to enjoy the sunshine and views.
The views from Torre Aurora
As a reminder that we might have been enjoying ourselves a little too much, I was stung by a bee on my finger while shushing it away from my glass. I got the stinger out right away, but it still hurt like heck. Luckily, I’m ambidextrous and could safely finish my wine.
We headed back to the hotel – thankfully it was downhill. I soaked my finger in cold water and took an aspirin tablet, as my finger was swelling. We relaxed for a bit before getting changed for dinner.
It was a nice night, but a little breezy, so the owner was nice enough to put the windscreen down for us. The meal was simple, but delicious. After yesterday’s dinner, a light meal was just perfect.
Caprese saladShrimp ravioliGrilled shrimpTiramisuDinner at Il Casello
A nice stroll back to the hotel with the sounds of the sea was a perfect end to the evening and our stay in Monterosso Al Mare.
When the morning arrived, we woke, showered and packed our bags. Our driver would be picking us up at 11:00 am.
A little bit after 10:00 am, the phone rang. Uh, oh!
It was the front desk. They wanted to make sure we were ok, since we hadn’t come down for breakfast. I thanked them for calling and explained we were getting ready to leave.
When we went down to check out, it was very touching. We paid the bill, letting them know how much we enjoyed our stay. Mama gave Sue a potholder with a Pesto recipe on it. In the meantime, Sue asked Emanuela if she could take a photo of her and she was so cute primping and then posing.
Emanuela was the hostess, server, and Jill of all trades. She would be hustling around, but always stopped over to chat.
We got hugs from Emanuela and then Mama came around and we got more hugs. It was such a nice send off.
Somebody told us that: “You’re paying for those smiles in the tourist areas”. I think the way to get genuine smiles is through respect and kindness.
When we woke up, the skies were partly cloudy, but the winds were blowing from the west – which had the surf really pounding the shoreline. The red flags were flying, meaning no swimming. It also meant no boats would be sailing today, so the trains were coming in full.
Goodbye gentle surf; hello crashing waves
To get to the new part of town, you have three choices. You can walk through the tunnel, walk up and over the hill or I suppose you can swim. I wanted to swim, but Sue reminded me that it was a red flag day.
Since the tunnel is just beyond our hotel, that became our choice.
What lies at the end of the tunnel?
On the other side of the tunnel, your sight line is to the north. While it was still windy, the view was brighter with a touch of sun.
As you walk, the feeling is like strolling down a boardwalk. The sea on one side and shops, hotels, bars and restaurants on the other. A short ways down, you’ll also find the train station. When a train comes in, there is a surge of people so move along!
We walked along until we reached the Restaurant Miky. While others were waiting for them to open for lunch, we waited to make a dinner reservation. The only opening they had was at 9:00 pm and we took it.
It was actually getting warm in the sun, so we headed back to our side of the tunnel to relax for a while. By now you all know that means we found a place for a glass of wine. Today also included a small bite to eat.
Just under the train overpass is a small bar that always has people there. We grabbed a table in the shade and did some people watching with a glass or two of Rosé Spumante and slices of focaccia. It was a lovely way to enjoy some afternoon time.
Then we went back to the hotel to really relax for a couple hours before dinner. I had read about Restaurant Miky before we left home and hoped we might be able to go. People have said that the food is wonderful, the service is great and the prices are reasonable. We shall see.
It was a nice walk over – this time without the hot sun. All the restaurants and bars we passed were busy and the street was brightly lit. When we arrived, the place was abuzz.
We were seated and then the fun began. We started with water and a glass of prosecco to ease into the meal. The menus and wine list were presented and everything sounded great. They had some different choices from what we had been eating recently so we were looking forward to the change.
Amuse Bouche served on a warm stoneRaviolis with shrimp fillingSeared scallopsBraised beef cheeksRoast duck breastTiramisu
Well, how this is not a Michelin starred restaurant is beyond me. The food was incredible, the service was outstanding and when the check arrived, I honestly thought they forgot to charge for something.
It was around 11:00 pm when we finished, so we took a slow, hand-in-hand walk back to the hotel. We had to go in quietly, as reception was closed for the evening and we managed to get to our room without a ruckus.
They have been calling for rain every day, and today it arrived. We were pretty sure today would be the day as the skies were gray and the sea was churning.
Ominous skies
I don’t think I mentioned it previously, but breakfast is included at the Hotel Pasquale. You can choose what you’d like off the menu and they will prepare it for you. We really enjoy going down each morning for breakfast and interacting with the staff. Besides a delicious breakfast, there is always a friendly smile and if needed, a mini Italian lesson.
The torta di giorna or cake of the day was not to be missed. Different each day and always delicious. My favorite was the coconut cake.
We took a little walk after breakfast and while out, we managed to make dinner reservations at a place close to the hotel.
It was getting windier, so we high-tailed it back to the hotel and got there just before it started to rain. You could see some flashes of lightning over the mountains and at times there were some downpours. Feeling safe and comfy, we ordered a glass of wine and rode it out.
Dinner time was approaching and the rain had mostly stopped, but everything was quite wet. We made our way over to the Ristorante Ciak and they were in a bit of disarray.
With the rain, they lost about six tables and ours was just at the edge of the covered area. Occasionally, a drop of water would hit my back, so we kept edging the table in a little more.
We enjoyed the evening and our meals. I had a little coaching from a local woman when ordering my grilled anchovies. I shall always think of anchovies when I sneeze – “achoo – ga”. So they were my appetizer while Sue had a caprese salad. For our main courses, we both had Gnocchi. Sue’s was with pesto, while mine was in a bolognese. And of course, we had to finish with tiramisu. The wine was a Ligurian red called Buranca.
The breeze was picking up again, so we scampered back to the hotel. The storms out over the sea were sending much rougher surf our way.
Tomorrow, we’ll try and visit the new part of town.
Upon arrival and after check-in, our first task was to go out on the balcony and enjoy the beautiful view of the bay. We accomplished that task and enjoyed the fresh air and sea breeze.
Room View – notice how calm and peaceful.
From the balcony we could see that there was an abundance of activity in town. We could see the tour boat coming in fully loaded and each time a train came by, there seemed to be a surge of people.
Byeth train or byeth boat – they just keep coming!
Since it was already late afternoon, it was time to find a place to eat dinner tonight. We arrived after lunch, so most of the restaurants were closed for siesta. We did catch one guy, who said the best they could do was 9:00 pm.
We passed and wandered on. Not having any luck, we decided to come back when the restaurants were open again. But we did enjoy taking a look around town. Though crowded, it was still quaint.
Scenes from an afternoon stroll in Monterosso Al Mare.The BreadmanLate afternoon refreshment
We left the room about 7:30 and I felt like Oliver Twist searching out a bowl of gruel. It seemed like all the restaurants were full and busy. We finally found a place that could accommodate us – Osteria La Cambusa.
With it being dinner time for the mosquitoes too, we decided to sit on the inside. The restaurant appeared to be family run and while not in line for any Michelin stars, we had a nice first night’s dinner.
Update: Turns out the mini crowds were due to a Rick Steves tour in town).
After dinner, we took a nice walk back to the hotel, stopping by the sea wall to listen to the surf lapping at the shore. That sound is very soothing to me.
For our second day, since the weather was nice, we took a boat ride.
Here comes our boat
The boat stops at each town in the Cinque Terre except Coniglia, since they don’t have a waterfront. In my opinion, the towns look great from the water as you approach them.
Monterosso Al MareVernazzaCornigliaManarolaRiomaggiore
Once in the towns, their charm is somewhat tainted by all the tourists, souvenir shops, bars and restaurants. Ironic that the very things needed to support tourism, diminish the tourist destination.
We stayed on until the last town – Riomaggiore. We walked around town for a while and then found a place to have a little lunch.
Trattoria LaGrotta was a friendly little place with very good food. We thought we’d be sharing a pizza and ended up with a delicious meal.
Sicilian RosatoHomemade pasta pomodoroFish & ChipsGrilled sea bass
It turned out to be a very nice lunch – so much so, that we chose to skip dinner that evening. Instead, we bought some breadsticks and popped open a bottle of wine that we just happened to have with us from Alba.
There were a few flashes of lightning over the mountains. Bright enough to light up the sky, but no thunder booms. Tomorrow they are calling for rain, so we’re going to wait and see what the weather is like before making plans.
For tonight, it’s just pass me another breadstick, per favore. 🍷🥖
From Alba, we’ll be traveling south as we head to the Italian Riviera and the Cinque Terre. We’ll have five days to explore the towns and hopefully enjoy the beautiful azure waters along the coast.
The Cinque Terre consists of five villages which are all part of the Cinque Terre National Park. It is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is a popular summer time tourist spot. Luckily, we’re here in September, so it’s not as crowded as it could be.
The five villages of the Cinque Terre are (from South to North):
Riomaggiore – The southern most village which was built in the valley of the Rivus Maior which still runs under the town streets. People like to watch the sunset from the harbor.
Manarola – Often said to be the most picturesque of the five villages due to the colorful houses that sit perched on the cliffs just above the harbor.
Corniglia – The smallest and quietest of the Cinque Terre villages, Corniglia sits high in the cliffs and it is the only one without direct access to the sea, unless you count the 200 stairs.
Vernazza – Probably the most popular of the villages. Many hikers like to walk here from Monterosso as the distance is short.
Monterosso al Mare – The largest of the villages with the only long sandy beach. There is a new town and old town with a tunnel connecting the two and the train station in the middle.
Since we’ll be here for five days, the plan is to visit and explore each of the towns. No room in the luggage for hiking boots, so we’ll just take the train or boat to get around.
Our hotel is the Hotel Pasquale and it is located in the northernmost town of Monterosso al Mare. It’s a small family run hotel in a perfect location.
Hotel Pasquale
The rooms are small, but have everything needed, plus an awesome view out over the beach and the sea.
Looking inLooking out
Though we arrived in the sunshine, the weather looks like it might be a factor over the next few days. It’s a bit chilly and a lot overcast with rain predicted. We’ll just go with the flow and see what happens.
Today we are traveling from our Airbnb in Alba to Monterosso Al Mare in the Cinque Terre. We once again engaged the services of Daytrip to comfortably get us there. Along the way, we will be stopping in the resort town of Portofino for a short visit.
Our driver was Ivano and he arrived at the apartment right on time. The vehicle was a Mercedes Van and was very comfortable. We loaded in our bags and we were on our way. The total travel time, including the stop, is about 5 hours. The distance is just over 250 kilometers.
Comfortable and roomy
The route took us from Alba towards Asti, then over to Alessandria and down towards Genoa. From Genoa we continued south, clinging to the coastline. We then veered off and passed through Ripallo before arriving at Portofino. After Portofino, we continued along the coastline heading up and down the mountains until we reached Monterosso Al Mare.
Though the skies were overcast, the sun did peek out periodically while we cruised along. We could see the beginnings of autumn as there were patches of color in the trees – green being replaced by orange and yellow.
Once we got as far as Genoa, there were long stretches of road that were inside tunnels carved through the coastal mountains. In fact, I’d guess that about 50% or more of the road was through tunnels.
When we arrived in the area of Portofino, the road became narrow and winding as we made our way towards the Bay Area. There were a couple of times where we closed our eyes and hoped that Ivano would squeeze our way through – and he did.
When we arrived at Portofino, we made plans for him to return and pick us up in an hour rather than trying to coordinate a call for him to come back for us.
Portofino was really beautiful. Lots of high end shops, restaurants and souvenir kiosks, plus boats. There were actually lots of boats, including two large yachts that were moored.
PortofinoPortofino
We strolled down along the shoreline before heading back to our meeting point. Within a few minutes, Ivano returned and we were on our way to Monterosso Al Mare.
The remaining drive was up and down the mountain sides, across valleys and then down towards the sea. The scenery was incredibly beautiful. I was expecting a picturesque ride, but I never imagined it being as nice as it was.
When we reached Monterosso Al Mare, Ivano left us off with just a short walk down to our hotel. We thanked him for the great ride and made our way down through the town to our hotel.
Being a Friday afternoon, there were many tourists wandering through the streets. Our hotel, the Hotel Pasquale, was located at the end of the main street right near the beachfront. The location is exactly what I was hoping for.
Ivano
Another successful trip with Daytrip. Our driver was very nice, professional and accommodating. The vehicle was extremely comfortable and the ride was vastly better than having to schlep our bags through train stations and on and off trains.
We truly thought it was worth the price to get from place to place, and we’ll definitely use them again.
Our last day of tastings and Fall have arrived. However, those blue skies we had grown accustomed to have returned and the day is beautiful. Luca will once again be our guide and we are going to two wineries and visiting the town of Neive to have lunch.
Our first stop was at the winery of Orlando Abrigo. It is a beautiful property with the winery facilities built into the ground. They generate their own electricity using solar panels to accommodate the winery, offices and guest rooms.
For our breakfast wines, we tasted their Chardonnay blend, Nebbiolo, Barbera and Barbaresco. The wines were all good, but not a good fit for our palettes. We enjoyed the tasting, and the young man who led us around (also named Luca) but left without a purchase.
Abrigo’s LucaStack of barrels for aging
We next headed to Neive. I have read that it is a charming little town that definitely should be seen. We walked through town and loved it. Neive has that certain charm that just makes you smile to be there.
Some images from Neive
We stopped along the way at a small enoteca for a glass of wine and it was wonderful. First of all, the wine was delicious. They brought us out a small platter of nibbles to go along with the wine that consisted of one-bite salami sandwiches, cheese and warm breadstick ends – yum!
Sitting at a table behind us were five older gentlemen who were holding court. Just drinking their wine and giving a shout-out to other passersby. They may have been a touch loud, but it sure made the scene real and fun.
When we finished, I went in to pay and the folks at the counter were playing some AC-DC. It was a good time and we were “Thunderstruck”.
We continued our walk around town before heading to the restaurant for lunch. The restaurant was called “Umano” and was a delight. The menu of the day was posted and was a porcini mushroom salad, followed by grilled beef, sliced thin and served with roasted potatoes. We had a very nice bottle of Nebbiolo to go along. Luca shared in on the wine, but had a bowl of plin pasta to eat.
Lunch at Umano in Neive
Another great lunch, capped off with a platter of desserts – chocolate cookies, jellied candies and chocolate truffles.
Our final tasting was a special one. We went to Azienda Agricolo Nadia Curto.
Nadia’s Winery
Nadia makes some fabulous wines and makes them her way. There’s a little story that explains things a bit…
Nadia learned the art of wine from both her father and her uncle. Her father was more traditional in style, while her uncle was not. Her uncle was one of, and probably the most influential of the “Barolo Boys”.
The Barolo Boys were a group of ‘renegades’, who wanted Barolo to be better and more well known. Her uncle ventured to France and asked “How do you make your wines better?” And “How do you get people to buy them?”. He came back with new ideas and techniques and rocked the more traditional winemakers. The wines were successful and the techniques are widely used even today.
So Nadia has a little traditional and a little renegade approach to her wines – and they are really great.
When we arrived, they were busy harvesting the grapes. We met our tasting guide – Alesa – and before we walked on, we met Nadia too. We chit-chatted for a few minutes, letting her know how we came to know of her wines and how much we liked them.
Cleaning up for the next grapesAll of those too?
Alesa then led us into the vineyard, where we were able to see the luscious grape clusters hanging ready on the vines. You could almost hear them calling out – “Pick Me”!
Their vineyards are planted with Nebbiolo, Barbera and Freisa, plus a little bit of Dolcetto. They were harvesting, so there was a beehive of activity. The forecast was calling for rain, so everyone was trying to get the grapes in before it started over the weekend.
We then went into the tasting room to taste some wine. Alesa led us through the wines and from the first Dolcetto to the last Barolo, every wine was awesome! Each sip was a delight. It was fun not only tasting the wines, but also talking about them. While we were sitting talking, Nadia came in with other guests.
The wines of Nadia CurtoAlesa, Luca and Me
We were like groupies, gushing about how much we were enjoying the wines, her style of winemaking and her taste profile. Unbeknownst to us, one of the other guests was a wine journalist from San Francisco and she commented on our discussion and descriptions of the wine.
We told her of our tastings and suggested she talk to Valerie, hoping she would send a few customers to Piedmont.
Nadia was such a nice person, besides being a fantastic winemaker. We came as tasters and left feeling like friends. And yes, there will be another wine delivery. We bid them arrivederci, which came with hugs.
Sue and Nadia Curto
Our journey through Piedmont has been a delight. We walked through vineyards while grapes were being harvested, watched grapes being crushed, talked with winemakers and drank some wonderful wines.
We’ve also had some delicious meals, seen the beauty of the region beyond the vineyards and also met some very nice people.
Thanks to Luca for guiding the way and providing his insights. Thanks to Valerie for a perfect itinerary. And thanks to the wineries for graciously accepting visitors at such a busy time. Good luck with the harvest!
Once we returned to Alba, we bid goodbye to Luca and headed in to rest for a little while. Dinner would be pizza tonight at the neighborhood pizzeria that we went to on our first trip here.
We are happy to report that Nonna and Nonno are still there and still play a role. Our pizzas were good, as was the Pio Cesare Barbera D’Alba.
We strolled back to the apartment, gathered up our ‘stuff’ and prepared for the final packing.
Tomorrow we leave Piedmont and head to the Cinque Terre. The fun continues…
Slightly Whirled - A Traveler's Tales 